Top 20 Violin Duets from Easy to Hard

Best violin duets sorted by level

Playing any instrument well requires spending many hours alone, working out the kinks in rhythms, fingerings, intonation… you get the idea. We accept it as necessary, yet we know that music is not meant to be done alone all the time, and sometimes just one other person makes all the difference. Fortunately for us, violin is one of the most popular instruments on the face of the planet, so it shouldn’t be hard to find someone else to jam with. No matter what level you’re currently at, you’ll enjoy browsing the list below to find new, beautiful violin duets (or sometimes entire books!) that will renew your motivation while enhancing your technical skills.

Level 1: Easy beginner violin duets

(Suzuki Book 1-2)

In this section, the very first pieces can be played by absolute beginners. After that, they use basic finger patterns in first position only. Some of the later duets use sharps or flats that may be unfamiliar to an early Suzuki student, but there is nothing beyond Book 2.

#1 My First Progressive Duets (arranged or composed by D. Gazda and L. Clark)

This book is great for several reasons. Not only does it include duets at the beginning that can be played by absolute beginners, but there are editions for every string instrument, so you can have fun playing duets with any violinists, violists, cellists, or bassists you know.

Click here to buy the sheet music.

#2 Tunes for Two: 30 Very Easy Duets (Nico Dezaire)

Another great book for having fun and learning technique for the beginner. At first only open strings are used! After that, the basic finger patterns are introduced. This volume includes popular songs from around the world arranged for you and your favorite other violinist.

#3 Easiest Christmas Duets (Betty Barlow)

If you’re preparing for your first winter recital, chances are Christmas tunes are on your mind. Betty Barlow’s book is a great place to start, as her arrangements are simple yet lyrical. You will enjoy playing many of the old western favorites, as well as a few lesser-known carols.

Click here to buy the sheet music.

#4 Easy Baroque Duets for Violin (Betty Barlow)

Betty Barlow strikes again! This book is a little more advanced than the Christmas book, as it uses more slurs, and accidentals. But it’s worth practicing these techniques to play the arrangements of Bach, Handel, Telemann, Corelli, and many others.

Click here to buy the sheet music.

Level 2: Easy/intermediate violin duets

(Suzuki 2-3)

These are all still in first position but begin to use more advanced slurring patterns and accidentals.

#1 Mozart Easy Violin Duets (ed. Waldemar Twarz)

These are great preparation for Mozart’s violin duets, which are some of the most popular in the literature. The duets included here Mozart originally wrote for either two pianos or two basset horns (a mellow, clarinet-like instrument). They transfer well to violin, however, and these arrangements stay in first position.

#2 Bach Easy Violin Duets (ed. Waldemar Twarz)

A book of charming minuets and waltzes, these were also originally piano works. They are of the same difficulty as Twarz’s Mozart book, and a good next step from Betty Barlow’s book if you’re looking for more Baroque works.

#3 Six Petits Duos for Violin No. 6 Romanze (Ignaz Pleyel)

Ignaz Pleyel was born in Austria in 1757 into a somewhat large family: he was the 24th of 38 kids. He eventually studied with Joseph Haydn and became one of the best-loved composers of his generation. This short duet opens with a lyrical adagio, then moves into sparkling allegro rhythms.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#4 Suzuki Duets for Violins (Suzuki)

A great supplement for anyone studying the first three volumes of Suzuki. This book contains only the second violin parts, the first violinist just plays the melody from a regular Suzuki book. As one Amazon reviewer put it: “It makes you want to practice and that’s saying quite a bit.”

Click here to buy the sheet music.

Level 3: Intermediate violin duets

(Suzuki 4-6)

Here third position is used, as well as a little fourth position in the Shostakovich. Also the are more advanced articulation markings used (lots of staccato, dashes, ritards, but fortunately no fancy French words). The first wenty or so Bartok duos are quite compatible with this level, but the rest may be more of a challenge depending how comfortable you are reading rhythms. Soem of the Barotk and Shostakovich movements also use double-stops.

#1 Concerto for Two Violins in D Major, 1st Movement (J.S. Bach)

A Book 4 milestone for any Suzuki student, this brilliant piece can never be enjoyed too many times. Both violinists get equal chances to play the melodies, and it is a wonderful opportunity for two advanced students to play their first concerto with orchestra if there is an ensemble available.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#2 Concerto for Two Violins in A Minor Op. 3 No. 8, 1st Movement (Antonio Vivaldi)

Although not as famous as the Bach Double, this piece is actually slightly easier while having all that juicy Baroque flair. Violinists who love fiddle music will enjoy learning all the fast string crossings, known as “bariolage” in classical music.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#3 44 Duos for Two Violins (Bela Bartok)

Bartok was a Hungarian composer known for collecting and analyzing fold music. His 44 duets blend these themes with modern compositional techniques such as contrasting harmonies, rhythms, and detailed articulation markings. The notes for the first several movements are not very difficult, but these extra elements make them more challenging.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#4 Five Pieces for Two Violins and Piano (Dimitri Shostakovich)

These pieces are probably the most lyrical, sweetest Shostakovich compositions you will ever hear. They make wonderful recital pieces; even artists such as Itzhak Perlman and Anne-Sophie Mutter perform them. Yet they are also good for advancing students looking for something in the modern Russian style.

Click here to buy the sheet music.

Level 4: Advanced violin duets

(Suzuki 7-10)

This level jumps slightly from the last one. Some parts go as high as seventh position, and include frequent double-stops. The tempos are very quick with lots of sixteenth-note passages and trills. This pieces are suitable for the advance student who has a solid understanding of rhythms, smooth shifting skills, and is comfortable with the full range of finger patterns.

#1 Duo No. 1, Op. 5 in C Major (Luigi Boccherini)

Italian composer Luigi Boccherini spent most his life writing sunny music for courts in Vienna and Madrid. This violin duet is challenging due to its bright tempo, trills, fast shifting, and many twists and turns in the dynamics.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#2 Three Duos for Two Violins (Max Reger)

These intriguing and little-known pieces meld modern harmonic thought with traditional baroque forms. Reger, who lived into the 20th century, was a fantastic keyboardist in Leipzig who was particularly known for playing Bach. In these duets, he takes the traditional Baroque fugue style and infuses 20th-century harmonies and rhythms.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#3 Chaconne in A Minor (Jacques Aubert)

A chaconne is a set of variations based on a short harmonic pattern. There are several beautiful Chaconnes for solo violin, such as the ones by Bach and Vitali. Aubert is a rather forgotten composer, but this flowing, evocative piece is harmonically rich and reminiscent of organ music.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#4 Duo Concertante for Two Violins No. 3 in D Major (Charles de Beriot)

Beriot wrote three concert violin duets, as well as a volume of twelve easier duets. Duo Concertante No. 3 is the most famous, particularly the last movement, and frequently performed around the world. The quick sixteenth notes, abrupt string crossings, and doublestops make it a challenging but exciting piece.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

Level 5: Most difficult violin duets

These four duets are among the most virtuosic ever written. Standard professional repertoire, they utilize the entire range of the instrument, intricate rhythms and harmonies, and polyphonic writing (one instrument playing two melodies simultaneously). They are best for very advanced, highly motivated players who are either looking for flashy performance pieces or who want to use them to improve technique.

#1 Passacaglia (G. F.  Handel/Johan Halvorsen)

The passacaglia style derives from 17th-century Spain, where it meant a short instrumental interlude. This piece is anything but a short interlude. Handel originally composed this as part of a harpsichord sonata, and then Halvorsen arranged it for duet. The lower part can be played by violin, viola, or cello.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#2 Navarra (Pablo de Sarasate)

Most pieces listed here (except for the Bach and Vivaldi concertos and Shostakovich) are for two violins unaccompanied. However, Sarasate composed this piece for two violins and orchestra, his only work of this kind. In classic Sarasate style, both parts are equally virtuosic, using the entire range of the instrument.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#3 Etudes-Caprices for Two Violins (Henryk Wieniawski)

A prolific over-achiever, 19th-century Polish virtuoso Henryk Wieniawski not only wrote an entire set of solo violin caprices, but also an entire set for violin duo. Take that Paganini.

Click here to download the free sheet music.

#4 Sonata for Two Violins (Eugene Ysaye)

Like Wieniawski, Ysaye is another composer/virtuoso known for his extremely challenging solo violin repertoire. It’s no surprise then that his duet is also one of the most challenging ever written. Its complex harmonies and frequent chords for each player make it difficult to play in tune and together. 

Click here to download the free sheet music.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

Enjoy playing violin duets

Playing together with someone on your level and making music together can be very inspiring and motivating to practice violin.

You’ll have a clear goal and you don’t have to do it alone.

How to find a violin duo partner?

The easiest resource is your teacher or the music school you have lessons. They can probably match you with someone.

The Violin Guild Facebook group is also a great place to meet other string players and perhaps you’ll find a violin player in your area.

How about violin and piano duos?

Find my list of 23 of the most beautiful violin and piano duets right here.

What’s your favorite violin duo?

What do you enjoy playing? Leave a comment below!

Viola Size Chart: choose the right size viola

Did you know that violas come in a variety of sizes?

Selecting the correct size for you (or your child) is absolutely vital for fostering a happy and healthy viola journey.

Playing on a viola that is too big forces the player to contort their body into unnatural positions, possibly leading to injury (namely carpal tunnel and tendonitis); and playing on a viola that is too small can cause the player to feel very cramped and limited in their bowings and finger placements. Keep reading this article to discover what viola size is best for you or your child.

viola size chart

Although the violin and viola are similar, sizing is one big way in which they differ. The viola is generally bigger than the violin, and a “full size” viola can actually be a variety of sizes! Bigger violas are generally preferred because they give a deeper, richer sound. With that being said, being tall does not necessarily mean a bigger viola is for you, and being small does not necessarily mean a smaller viola is for you! When trying to find your optimal viola size, I highly recommend trying several options to see what feels (and sounds!) best.

16.5 inch + size viola

16.5 inches is the largest readily available viola size. Bigger violas are certainly available, but you may have to look harder to find them. To fit a 16.5-inch viola, your arm length should be 71 centimeters (or 28 inches) or longer. However, if your arms are shorter but your hands are big, you very well could play on a 16.5-inch. 

16 inch size viola

16-inch violas are considered large violas, recommended for players with an arm’s length of 69 centimeters (or 27 inches). 16-inch violas (and larger) are typically best suited for adults and children above the age of 14.

15.5 inch size viola

15.5-inch violas are made for players with an arm’s length of 66 centimeters (or 26 inches), typically suited for the average adult player, or children above the age of 14.

15 inch size viola

15-inch violas are made for players whose arm’s length is around 58 centimeters (or 23 inches). Children around the ages of 11-13 typically play on 15-inch violas.

14 inch size viola

14-inch violas are best suited for players with an arm’s length of 56 centimeters (or 22 inches), or children ranging from ages 9-12. 14-inch violas are comparable in size to full-size violins.

If you play violin and you want to play viola from now and then, it can be really easy to have a viola in the same size. The distances between the notes are the same.

13 inch size viola

13-inch violas are made for players whose arm’s length is 51 centimeters (or 20 inches), typically children around the ages of 8-10. 13-inch violas are comparable to ¾ size violins.

12 inch size viola

12-inch violas are best suited for players whose arms-length measures around 46 centimeters (or 18 inches). Children around the ages of 7-9 will most likely need this size. 12-inch violas are comparable to ½ size violins.

11 inch size viola

11-inch violas are made for players with an arm’s length of 38 centimeters (or 15 inches), usually children around the ages of 5-7. 11-inch violas are comparable to ¼ size violins.

10 inch size viola

10-inch violas are made for players with an arm’s length of 36 centimeters (or 14 inches), usually, students under the age of 5. 10-inch violas are comparable to ⅛ size violins.

What size viola do you play?

Leave a comment below what your ideal viola size is.

In my article about violin sizes you can find more information how to measure the right size and use the size chart.

Violin Size Chart: choose the right size violin

Did you know that violins come in a variety of sizes?

Selecting the correct size for you (or your child) is absolutely vital for fostering a happy and healthy violin journey.

Playing on a violin that is too big forces the player to contort their body into unnatural positions, possibly leading to injury (namely carpal tunnel and tendonitis); and playing on a violin that is too small can cause the player to feel very cramped and limited in their bowings and finger placements. Keep reading this article to discover what violin size is best for you or your child.

violin size chart

How do I know what violin size I need?!

The size of violin you need is based on your height and arm length. Age is also taken into consideration, however, all children grow at different rates, so when in doubt, choose a violin compatible with the child’s size rather than their age.

What if my child is between two violin sizes? Do I choose the larger or the smaller one?

If you find that you or your child are right on the cusp between two sizes, choose the smaller size to prevent any risk of injury. It might not seem economical and you might be afraid that your child can’t enjoy that size for a long time. In that case, choose to rent a violin or inform about the options to size up the violin you bought later. Lots of violin shops offer these possibilities. 

Note that the exact measurements of violin sizes are not very standard. There are for example larger and smaller 1/8 violins. If your child is between violin sizes, see if the violin shop has a relatively larger or small version of the size you’re looking it. That can be just right. Full sized 4/4 violins are usually consistent in measurement. The variety is in children’s sizes.

There are nine different violin sizes to choose from

Full size 4/4 violin

A full-size violin is 59 centimeters (or 23 inches) long, from scroll to endpin. If you are an adult learner, you will more than likely need a full-size violin (with the exception of shorter adults, under five feet). Children typically graduate to a full-size instrument around 11 or 12 years old. In order to comfortably play a full size, your left arm should be 58.5 centimeters (or 23 inches) long, from the base of your neck to the middle of your palm.

⅞ size violin

A ⅞ size violin is 57 centimeters (or 22 inches) long and is geared towards those with an arm length of 57.5 centimeters (or 22 inches). ⅞ violins are sometimes referred to as the “ladies violin” because they are just ever so slightly smaller than the full size and therefore thought to be more suited towards women (but men can use them too!). Adults may choose to try a ⅞ size instrument if they experience any pain or discomfort when playing a full size, and children who are too big for a ¾ but not quite ready for a full size may also benefit from using a ⅞.  ⅞ violins are not very common, so you may have to look a little harder to find one.

Important note: fractional violins (which are any size violin beside a full size) will not sound as full (or loud) as a full size. 

¾ size violin

A ¾ size violin is 55 centimeters (or 22 inches) long. To comfortably fit a ¾ size violin, your arm should be about 56 centimeters (or 22 inches) long. Students around ages 9-11 typically use a ¾ size violin, but they can also be used by small adults. 

½ size violin

A ½ size violin is 52 centimeters (or 20 inches) long and best suited for players with an arm’s length of 51 centimeters (or 20 inches). Children around ages 7-9 typically use half-size violins. In my experience, the jump from ¼ to ½ size is typically the biggest of the fractional sizes, so err on the side of caution when bridging this gap. Remember: it’s far worse to play on a violin that is too big than one that’s too small!

¼ size violin

A ¼ size violin is 48 centimeters (or 19 inches) long. To use a ¼ size violin, a child’s arm should be around 47 centimeters (or 18 inches) long, and they will most likely be around 6-7 years old. 

⅛ size violin

A ⅛ size violin is 43 centimeters (or 17 inches) long and is best suited for children with an arm’s length of 42 centimeters (or 16 inches). This is usually around 5-6 years of age.

Sometimes it might make sense to start a 4 year old on a relatively small 1/8 violin. The sound is a lot better than the smaller sizes, which is motivating for your budding little fiddler. Also very small sized violin have a tiny bridge and the strings are close together, which makes it difficult to bow on one string and to cross strings.

1/10 size violin

A 1/10 size violin is 39 centimeters (or 15 inches) long. Children around ages 4-5 typically use this size, and their arm’s length should be about 38 centimeters (or 15 inches) long.

The step from 1/16 to 1/8 is quite big, so a size in between might be very convenient. Unfortunately when you order a 1/10 online often a 1/16 is delivered. Before buying check what the measurements are or (best!) try the instrument out, so you know it’s the right fit.

1/16 size violin

A 1/16 size violin is 36 centimeters (or 14 inches long). 1/16 size violins are typically best suited for children with an arm’s length of 35.5 centimeters (or 14 inches), generally under the age of 5.

Note that the sound of this size usually isn’t that good as the soundbox is simply too small for a pitch that’s meant for a 4/4 violin. If your child still plays a lot of open strings, sometimes it can make sense to start on a larger size (a 1/10 or maybe a small 1/8). By the time they play with all fingers, they might also be big enough for that larger size.

1/32 size violin

A 1/32 size violin is 33 centimeters (or 13 inches long). These are meant for extremely young children (between the ages of 2-5). Their arms-length should be 35 inches (or 14 inches) or under.

This size isn’t used that much as (frankly) they sound awful, it’s extremely difficult to bow an open string without hitting neighboring strings due to the small bridge and usually two and three years old can already handle a 1/16 violin.

What violin bow size do I need?

The violin bow corresponds in size to the violin size. Smaller violins come with shorter bows. This is all related to your arm length: with a bow that’s too long, you wouldn’t be able to bow at the tip. Also a longer bow is heavier and difficult to handle for small children.

The only exception to this is that with a 7/8 violin, adults usually choose for a 4/4 bow as there’s much more choice in full sized bows. 7/8 bows do exists, but are even more rare than 7/8 violins.

When getting used to a bigger size it can make sense to keep playing with the smaller sized bow for a little while. In this way your child doesn’t need to get used to a new size violin AND a new size bow at the same time.

How do I measure myself to see which size violin I should get?

Great question! There are two ways of measuring yourself (or your child) to see which violin size would work best. The first is to just take a tape measure, place it at the nape of your neck, and extend it to the middle of your left palm. When doing this, your arm should be held out so that it’s parallel to the ground. Once you have your measurement, you can use the chart here to determine which size would fit best. This method works great if you’re just starting out and don’t have an instrument to compare your arm’s length to.

The second way works best if you already have an instrument and are trying to figure out if it’s too big or too small. Place your violin in playing position (on your shoulder) and extend your left arm out so that it is straight. Notice where the violin makes contact with your arm. Ideally, the tip of the violin scroll should sit at your wrist. If you notice that the scroll is in your palm, you need to size down, and if the scroll stops anytime before your wrist, you need to size up. 

If you’re feeling uncertain about choosing the right size, many shops will size you or your child for you. It never hurts to ask!

How to handle sizing up: changing to a bigger violin size for kids

Changing the size of your violin can throw everything out of whack! When switching to a bigger instrument, the spacing between your fingers will feel bigger, your bow will feel longer and more unwieldy, and the instrument may feel heavier as well. For at least the first week of playing on a bigger size, stick to pieces that you know well so that you just need to focus on getting used to how this new instrument feels and sounds!

Look up your right violin size based on age and (most important) arm length:

Violin size
4/4 (full size)
7/8
3/4
1/2
1/4
1/8
1/10
1/16
1/32
Age in years
11+ and adults
10+ and adults
9-11
7-9
6-7
5-6
4-5
5 years and under
5 years and under
Arm length INCH
23
22
22
20
18
16
15
14
14 and under
Arm length CM
58,5
57,5
56
51
47
42
38
35,5
35 and under

Violin buying tips from a violin teacher

Once you’ve figured out the size, it’s time to buy your violin! Here are two violins I’ve tested and approve as a violin teacher. Please note that the sizes are a bit different per shop and maker, so I’ve added size charts specifically for these makers.

Ricard Bunnel G2 Student Violin Outfit

by Kennedy Violins

Available in all sizes this is a great instrument to start playing the violin. The sizing is relatively small in the small sizes (see below). I personally use the 1/8 size for my four year old daughter and we both love it. Sizes go from 1/16 to 4/4.

Ricard Bunnel violin sizing

Violin size
4/4 (full size)
3/4
1/2
1/4
1/8
1/10
1/16
Violin body length
354mm
335mm
309mm

250mm

235mm
212mm
Total violin length
589mm
555mm
513mm

415mm

392mm
364mm

Fiddlerman Concert Violin Outfit

Excellent student violin with great sound. Watch my review video here. Sizes go from 1/16 to 4/4. There’s also a 7/8 size, which is great for some adults or kids who are in between 3/4 and 4/4.

Fiddlershop violin sizing

Violin size
4/4 (full size)
7/8
3/4
1/2
1/4
1/8
1/16
Violin body length
356mm
345mm
335mm
310mm
285mm
260mm
215mm

What about the viola?

The viola has different sizes than the violin. Find my viola size chart right here.

What size violin do you play?

I hope this article has given you some clarity about all the different violin sizes. Make sure to bookmark this page, so you’ll always have this handy violin size chart at hand.

What size violin do you currently play? Let me know in the comments!

Violin Parts: anatomy of the violin inside out

Learn all the parts of your violin, so you can maintain your instrument, know how the violin works and can create a beautiful sound:

Understanding the different parts of the violin and their purposes is important for violinists of every level to understand in order to protect and maintain their instrument, and to learn how to work with the instrument to produce the best sound. In this article, you will find a detailed description of each part of the violin and bow.

How many parts does a violin have?

Depending what you count (tailpiece as one or each fine tuner separately) a violin has about 90 separate parts. Wow!

Overview of the violin parts

violin parts

Violin parts and their function

The scroll is the decorative carving at the end of the neck of the instrument. The curved nature of the scroll is an ancient symbol used in art from around the world, and the violin scroll actually mimics the shape of a written scroll. Don’t believe me? Take a piece of paper and roll it up and see for yourself! Most often, scrolls are carved in this curved shape, but sometimes they are carved into animal heads, people’s heads, or other decorative designs. The eye of the scroll is the section of the scroll that is facing the player while in playing position.

The curves of the scroll directly flow into the pegbox, which is where the violin pegs are housed. The top of the pegbox is open, and there are four holes on each side where the pegs are placed. There are two pegs on each side; the pegs for the A and E strings are on the right and the pegs for the D and G strings are on the left. The pegs are round, wooden devices that have a small hole in them where the strings are attached. The pegs are used to adjust the pitch of the strings. Tightening a peg (turning it away from you or backward) raises the pitch, and loosening a peg (turning it towards you or forward) lowers the pitch.

The nut, which is a small strip of wood, lies directly under the pegbox. There are four grooves in the nut for each of the four violin strings to sit on to help them remain evenly spaced. The nut also supports the strings so that they are at a good height from the fingerboard.

The violin has four strings tuned in intervals of fifths. From lowest to highest (left to right), the strings are G, D, A, and E. The strings can be made from a variety of materials, but are most often made of either steel (most common) or gut (less common but used frequently in Baroque performance practice). The strings vary in thickness and tension, and this creates variations in pitch. The lower strings (like G and D) are thicker and are under less tension, while the higher strings (like A and E) are thinner and under more tension.

The fingerboard is the black surface where a player places his fingers. The fingerboard is glued onto the neck of the violin, underneath the strings, and is generally made out of ebony, which is wood that comes from trees in tropical climates. The neck of the violin is the part of the instrument between the pegbox and the body. The neck allows violinists to hold the instrument. The heel of the violin (not to be confused with the heel of the bow, which is the lower part of the bow near the frog) is the curved piece of wood that connects the neck to the body. The nose of the violin (who knew that violins had noses just like us?!) is the rounded part of the instrument on its back connected to the heel that secures the connection of the neck and body of the instrument.

The table (or top) of the instrument refers to the side of the instrument that faces upwards while playing (and hopefully while resting, too!) The top is made up of a top plate, which describes the piece of wood that makes up the top of the instrument.

The purfling is a thin strip of three-ply wood inlaid around the edge of the violin to protect the instrument from damage. The purfling may just look like lines around the edges, but it is absolutely vital for the construction and protection of the instrument.

The F-holes (or sound holes) are two holes in the middle of the violin surrounding the bridge. They are called F-holes because they look like the cursive letter F. After the string vibrates the body of the violin, the sound waves are directed out of the body through the F-holes, thus, altering either the length or width of the F-holes has a direct impact on the sound.

The bridge supports the strings on the lower end of the violin. The bridge is held in place by the tension of the strings, which put about 90 pounds of pressure onto it! When the strings vibrate, the bridge also vibrates, thus, the placement of the bridge directly affects the sound of the instrument. Violin bridges also come in varying degrees of curvature. A more curved bridge makes it slightly easier to play on one string at a time but may make double stops (playing two strings at once) slightly more difficult. A less curved bridge does the opposite: playing on one string at a time may be more challenging, but double stops may be easier. 

The tailpiece is an almost triangular piece of wood that holds both the ends of the strings and the fine tuners.

The fine tuners are little metal screws that are either built into the tailpiece or attached with an extra device. The purpose of the fine tuners is to help the player tune the strings in small increments, much smaller than the pegs (which is very helpful for beginning players).

The tailpiece connects to the endpin via the tail loop, which holds the tailpiece up slightly and allows for free vibrations of the body of the instrument. The endpin is the button at the bottom of the violin.

The chinrest is attached to the end of the violin, near the tailpiece. This is where the player rests his chin (or jaw) and what allows him to support the weight of the violin with his head, thus freeing up his left hand. The chin rest also helps to preserve the varnish of the violin by preventing exposure to the acidity of sweat.

The varnish is a liquid comprised of sun-thickened oils, oxidized resins, and color. The varnish gives each violin its beautiful coloring and protects its wood from environmental damage (heat, humidity, etc.).

Additionally, the chinrest is attached to the saddle, a block on the inside of the violin that helps support the tension of the strings.

The back of the violin is the part of the instrument that faces downward when playing. The back (and top) of the violin is comprised of the upper bout, waist, and lower bout. The upper bout describes the upper section of the instrument, where the neck connects to the body. The waist is actually a very necessary indentation in the middle of the instrument that allows the bow to move across the strings without bumping into the body. The lower bout is the lower section of the instrument, where the tailpiece and chin rest are located. 

What’s inside your violin?

Here’s an overview of a violin opened up, so you can take a peek at it’s anatomy and construction:

violin anatomy

The soundpost is a small wooden post located on the inside of the violin on the right side of the bridge. The soundpost plays an important role in transferring the vibrations of the strings into the body of the instrument, and therefore its placement can greatly affect the sound quality and volume.

The ribs of the violin make up the sides of the instrument. They are pieces of wood that stand vertically and connect the table (or top) and back of the violin.

Violin linings are little boards used to increase the surface area for gluing sections of the body to the ribs and thus increase stability.

Violins have top-end blocks, corner blocks, and bottom-end blocks which are additional pieces of wood that increase stability.

The violin also has a bass bar inside. The bass bar is an additional piece of wood that supports the top of the instrument and distributes the vibrations to the top of the instrument.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

Contact Points on the Violin

The contact points on the violin is the point where the bow hair touches the string while bowing. In general we distinguish five points of contact and they all make a different sound. Click here to learn more.

Violin Bow Parts

I didn’t even include the parts of the violin like the screw, frog, stick, hair and tip. Also you might have heard your teacher say you should play in the ‘upper half’, with ‘whole bow’ or ‘at the tip’. Or practice bowing at the balance point or the spiccato spot. Where to perform all those different bowing techniques? Read all about violin bow parts, bow division and bow strokes right here.

What’s your biggest insight? Or fun fact?

Share it in the comments below. I’d love to read it.

How long does it take to learn the violin?

What makes you fast learner on the violin, what pieces can you play after one, two or five years and when do you start vibrato?

In this article I’ll start by explaining what determines your progress on the violin and how fast you’ll likely learn. After that I will go into what you learn in the first few months on the violin and what you can (on average) expect after a few years. I will list the pieces and let you know how much you should practice at each level.

‘How long does it take to learn to play the violin?’

Ah what a simple question, that unfortunately does not have a simple answer! The truth of the matter is that everyone learns at a different pace and everyone’s struggles are different, so the answer to this question will be different for everyone.

Additionally, is anyone ever truly done learning an instrument? I have been playing for over 20 years and I am still learning every day! Pablo Casals (a world-famous cellist) said it best. When asked why he continued to practice after dozens of years of experience, he stated, “because I think I am making progress.”

First I will go into the factors that determine how fast you will learn the violin. After that I will give you an average timeline of learning the violin.

Although it is impossible to say how long it will take you to master the instrument, here are a few important factors that can greatly impact your rate of progress:

  • How much you practice
  • Quality of your practice
  • Quality of your violin lessons and teacher
  • Age with which you started

Let’s go a bit deeper into each of them:

How much you practice the violin daily

This is most likely the biggest contributor to your progress (or lack thereof). When it comes to practice, consistency is key. When practicing, you are developing your muscle memory; and unfortunately, if you are not actively working to build this up, you are losing it. Have you ever practiced something and felt really good with the results, only to come back to it a few days later and be back at square one? Yeah, me too. One really good practice session is not enough to build up muscle memory, and if you take a few days off without training your muscles in the same way, all of that work will have been for naught.

So how long should you be practicing the violin per day?

That completely depends on your goals, your playing level, and how much time you have. Since we know that consistency is key, we can conclude that it is better to practice every day for 30 minutes than every other day for an hour. For absolute beginners, 30 minutes per day is plenty. You are training your body to move in a completely new way and you don’t want to overdo it. For late beginner and intermediate players, an hour to an hour and a half a day is a solid amount of time to see progress. Advanced players should be practicing for at least two hours per day, and those wishing to pursue a career in music should be practicing between three and five hours per day. I’ve included more detailed recommendations for practice time based on skill level and experience below.

With all this being said, life happens. We don’t always practice as much as we’d like, things come up and we have to take unplanned days off, and that’s totally okay. Please don’t beat yourself up about it; just get right back on track.

The quality of your violin practice

Have you ever driven somewhere, gotten to your destination, and had no memory of how you got there? (Because same). Similarly, have you ever finished a practice session and couldn’t remember a single thing you got done?! I definitely have, it is a frustrating feeling. It’s so easy for us to go on “auto-pilot” during practice, which is why we must actively work to keep our minds engaged at all times. Why spend your precious time practicing if you aren’t going to see results? If you practice mindlessly, you may as well not have practiced at all! Here are a few tools to help keep your mind engaged and make sure that your practice time is as efficient as possible.

Set clear goals

Before the beginning of your practice session, decide on goals for each passage you’re working on. I recommend writing them down. These goals should be specific and clearly measurable.
Example of a good goal: Improve intonation in measures 1-8. This tells you exactly what to work on and where. You can easily measure this goal by recording yourself at the beginning of the session and at the end of the session to see if the intonation improved.
Example of a bad goal: Work on page 2. Work on what exactly!? This goal is way too vague, and a whole page is most likely too broad of a section to focus on.

Use the right violin practice tools

Once you have identified your goals, write out a list of practice techniques (or “tools”) that you can use to help with the specific problem. Try all of them out, and take note of which ones work the best for you. Additionally, when tackling any passage, only focus on one problem at a time so you won’t get overwhelmed.

Not sure what violin practice tools to use? I’ve got you covered! Here’s a list of some common issues with practice techniques.

Intonation practice tools: Listening to the resonance of your instrument, practicing with a tuner, practicing with a drone, checking with your open strings

Speed practice tools: Practicing in rhythms, gradually speeding the piece up with the metronome

Memorization practice tools: Listening to the piece frequently, playing short sections with the music

String crossing practice tools: Practice the passage on open strings, practice stopping before each string crossing

Do not use mindless repetition

Yes, repetition is an important part of practicing; however, it should be done in a very calculated way. You only want to repeat a passage in the exact way you would like to play it. Think about it this way. If you play a passage incorrectly nine times, and finally get it right on the tenth time, are you more likely to play it correctly or incorrectly the next time you come to it? Incorrectly! In order for your odds to increase, after you play the passage correctly, you need to practice it nine more times to even have a 50/50 shot of playing it right on the next go around.

Measure your goals

At the end of your practice session, evaluate yourself. Ask yourself things like:

  • Did I accomplish my goals?
  • What went well today?
  • What could I have done better today?

Some like to keep a practice journal in which you write the goals before you start practicing and you write an evaluation at the end of your practice session. Also you can make notes of the things you practiced and your to-do list for the next day.

Record yourself

This is a great, unbiased method for measuring your goals and tracking your progress. Quite often, your playing sounds different under your ear than it does to the audience. Recording yourself at the beginning and end of each practice session will help you be able to more clearly tell if your goals were accomplished.

The quality of your instruction

Simply put, your instruction can make or break your violin journey. It’s important not only to receive high-quality information, but also to receive targeted feedback, advice on practice techniques, and moral support when you’re stuck in a rut. This is why having a great instructor is so important.

Is it possible to learn the violin on your own?

Of course, it is. However, it is going to take much more time, effort, and frustration. The biggest downside to learning on your own is not receiving direct feedback on your progress. You may have access to all of the best information in the world (which you do thanks to the internet), but even though you know how to do things in theory, putting them into practice is a whole different story. Questions are bound to come up. You may not understand why something just doesn’t sound right or feel right. Even if weekly lessons are not possible, checking in with a teacher monthly (or even bi-monthly!) will make a world of difference.

The age at which you started

I do want to make one thing clear: you can learn to play the violin at a very high level, regardless of the age you started. However, the age at which you started does have an impact on how fast you will be able to progress. Children’s brains were literally made for learning, so it’s only natural that someone who started when they were a child will progress faster than someone who started when they were an adult. In my teaching experience, I’ve found a significant difference between adult learners who played for a bit as a child and those who had no prior musical experience. The students who had played as a child (even only briefly) are able to progress faster. So, if you’re an adult learner with no prior musical experience, be prepared for a slightly longer road (but remember, it is very possible!)

Timeline how long it takes to learn violin

Remember that this is only a rough guideline, so please don’t worry if you find yourself ahead or behind these suggestions.

Month One

Welcome to the violin world! In your first month of learning to play the violin, you should be getting familiar with the parts of the instrument, how to take care of it, how to hold the bow and the violin, and how to tune the violin. You may also be learning how to draw long, sustained bows on open strings. You may be discovering that the instrument is a lot more challenging than you think (who knew it took so much effort and knowledge to be able to maintain a perfectly straight bow?!) If you’re also learning how to read music for the first time, you’re getting familiar with the basics such as note values, key signatures, and time signatures.

Sample pieces: open string practice

Recommended practice time: 20-30 minutes per day.

Month Two

In month two, you have a clear idea of proper posture, but you most likely will still find yourself adjusting frequently (why won’t our pinkies just stay curved?!) You’re learning how to play on two strings (most likely A and E strings), learning how to switch between those strings, and learning how to use fingers one, two, and three, with a half step in between your second and third fingers. You’re also learning to read the notes of the tunes that you’re playing.

Sample pieces: Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, Three Blind Mice, Hot Cross Buns

Recommended practice time: 20-30 minutes per day.

Months Three through Six

In months three through six, you will learn how to play on all four strings, how to use your fourth finger, and work on slurs. You’ll expand your note-reading knowledge by learning where all of the notes in first position lie on the staff, but it might still take you a minute to figure out what each note is. At this point, you should be relatively comfortable with holding the bow, and may even start to work on loosening your bow hand up. You should be able to maintain a straight bow and solid contact point, thus producing a solid, pleasing sound.

Sample pieces: Amazing Grace, Ode to Joy, Happy Birthday

Recommended practice time: 30-45 minutes per day.

Months Seven through Twelve

You will be learning a lot of new finger positions, including the low second finger, low first finger, low fourth finger, and high third finger. These finger positions will allow you to play a much wider range of pieces. You may begin to learn about resonant intonation and start to peel away those finger tapes (if you were using them in the first place). At the end of month twelve, you should feel comfortable reading all of the notes in first position at sight, as well as all the basic rhythms such as quarter notes, half notes, whole notes, eighth notes, sixteenth notes, and their corresponding rests.

Sample pieces: Minuets 1, 2, 3, Canon in D

Recommended practice time: 45 minutes per day.

Months Thirteen through Eighteen

At this point, you are more than likely so pleased with the progress you’ve made in just a year. You remember thinking you’d never be able to sound decent, and now you’re discovering that not only is it possible, but you’ve done it! At this point, you feel comfortable playing and reading music in first position, and you may begin working with more complicated rhythms, such as dotted notes, ties, and syncopations. You will be working a lot on bow technique; specifically how to create dynamics, different bow strokes such as up-bow staccato, and lifting the bow off of the string.

Sample pieces: Boccherini Minuet, Swan Lake

Recommended practice time: 45 minutes-1 hour per day.

Months Nineteen to Twenty-Four

Now comes the fun part-shifting! When you begin learning this technique, you are officially out of the beginner stage and into the intermediate. Shifting can be a bit of a mind-bender as you’ll learn that you can play the same note in a couple of different ways on the violin. You’ll also discover that the spacing of the fingers is different in third position, so you’ll have to retrain your fingers to sit a little closer together than you’re used to. You’ll be getting used to reading notes in third position as well.
Sample pieces: Rieding Violin Concerto in B Minor, Kuchler Violin Concerto in G Major
Recommended practice time: 1 to 1.5 hours per day.

Year Three

In the first few months of year three, you’ll more than likely be learning vibrato. In my opinion, it only takes a few months to cultivate a basic vibrato but up to two years to develop a vibrato you love (so trust the process). You’ll be getting more comfortable with shifting and using it more frequently within your pieces. You’ll also be diving into double stops and chords, as well as beginning to learn three-octave scales. At this point, your note reading should be fluent through first and third positions, and you should begin familiarizing yourself with notes up through sixth position.

Sample pieces: Seitz Concerto in D Major, Vivaldi Concerto in A Minor, Bach Double

Recommended practice time: 1.5 hours per day

Year Four

Now the real fun begins! You’ve developed all of the foundational techniques you need, and now you’ll continue to refine them and dive into more advanced techniques. You’ll become comfortable with using vibrato in your pieces, work on off the string bow strokes such as spiccato and sautille, and learn to read notes higher than third position more fluently.

Sample pieces: Czardas, Schindler’s List

Recommended practice time: 1.5-2 hours per day

Year Five and beyond

Now that you have several years of experience under your belt, you can focus less on technique and more on artistry. You will begin to play major violin concertos, vary your vibrato to aid in expression, and hopefully perform with others.

Sample pieces: Accolay Violin Concerto, Mozart Violin Concerto, Beethoven Spring Sonata

Recommended practice time: 2+ hours per day

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

Learning the violin is like a road trip; sure, you’re excited to get to your final destination, but you’re also enjoying the view along the way. Celebrate the little wins and know that they ultimately build to great progress.

How long did you take to learn the violin?

What do you feel ‘I can play the violin’ means? To play a simple tune or to master all Paganini caprices? Or something in between?

What’s your goal on the violin? What’s your dream piece? Can you already play it?

I’d love to read all about YOU in the comments below!