How to Get A Pro Recording of Your Acoustic Violin From Home

Why every violinist should record from home

This article is written by guest author Brad Johnson

As a violinist, you have many great opportunities at your fingertips if you can learn how to get great recordings from the comfort of your home.

Recording yourself is an excellent practice for instant feedback on your technique. It’s also a great way to release more music, connect your music to more people, and become a great side hustle!

Websites like SoundBetter.com and airgigs.com make it easy for musicians to market their services to other’s projects. And being a violinist, you could offer a great service where there isn’t as much competition as a guitarist, drummer, or programmer might experience.

The good news is that recording acoustic violin from your home doesn’t have to be expensive, complicated, or take years of practice.

As long as you get the basics right, you can accomplish a lot with a little.

This article will give you a high-level view of what it will take to get a pro-sounding violin recording from home to take your talent to whole new heights!

Let’s get started!

Part 1: The Basics

Before diving into the gear, you will need to get a pro-sounding violin recording from home; let’s first dive into essential preparation.

The secret of a great recording

There is no denying the power of outstanding performances when it comes to music.

The energy and personality of the musician always dictate the quality of the recording. If a player is unprepared or nervous, this will translate into the recording and what you hear coming out of the speakers.

This crazy intangible that no amount of gear, software, or money can fix.

As you begin this journey of recording your violin, there will be a steep learning curve. You will give stale and stiff performances as you overthink the entire process.

But this is entirely normal!

The key is to get your recording space up and running and integrate it as part of your practice routine quickly. Get comfortable hitting the record button and running through your practice routines. Don’t worry about “laying down the track” and simply get used to the experience of recording yourself.

As you remove the mystique and pressure of recording, you will feel more natural and confident when you intentionally record a new song with your violin.

Another benefit of incorporating the recording aspect into your practice routine is that you will have documentation of your progress in both your violin and recording skills.

The instrument

Violins are very resonant instruments that also have lots of extra little noises. When recording violin, you will pick up every tiny detail that usually goes unnoticed in a live performance.

Your instrument and bow must be adequately maintained and set up to get a pro-sounding recording.

When your instrument is in proper working order, you will avoid picking up any unwanted noises.

Your wardrobe

This might seem like a funny point to mention when getting a pro-sounding violin recording from home. However, great recordings will get ruined by jangly jewelry and noisy clothes.

Wearing comfortable and loose fabric that doesn’t make noise as you play is a small but crucial part of getting the best recording you can from your violin.

The room

Getting the right room to help you achieve an excellent violin recording will be the most challenging part of this whole process.

When you think of an incredible-sounding violin recording, you often think of those big open spaces where sound feels as if it is floating in the air. Unfortunately, your house, or apartment, was not designed to produce this type of sound.

In fact, your living spaces are working against you when recording music. A bedroom, living room, or bathroom is too small to allow sound waves to pleasantly reverberate as you’d hear in a concert hall.

The solution to this is to make the room in which you create your home studio as “dead” as possible. You want to try and remove as much room sound from the recording equation as possible.

There are many ways to accomplish this, some expensive and some affordable. If you are handy (or know someone who is), building your own sound panels is the most effective and cost-effecient way to stop room reflections.

This can be accomplished by using 4” thick Owens Corning 703 Fiberglass panels, putting a wood frame around them, and wrapping them with a breathable fabric.

Place one panel above you on the ceiling, one in front of you, one behind you, one to each side of you, and one in each room corner. Then you will create a much better recording environment.

There are also acoustic companies, like Auralex, that sell acoustic foam that you can place on your wall, which is very effective and fast to install. However, these solutions are more costly and not as aesthetically pleasing as the DIY route.

For more information on setting up sound panels in your home studio, please refer to this resource from Sound on Sound Magazine here.

Part 2: The Gear

Now that we have our foundation built for a pro-recording, let’s get into real gear talk. I promise you won’t need to spend an arm and a leg if you get the last things right!

The microphone

If you Google “The best microphone for recording Violin,” you will get many opinions and recommendations. However, I will argue that the microphone doesn’t matter as much as you would think.

Microphones are simply sonic paintbrushes. 

However, it’s critical to understand the nuances, inherit benefits, and potential pain points of certain microphone types when recording your acoustic violin.

There are two types of microphones you should consider when recording your acoustic violin:

  1. Condenser
  2. Ribbon

A condenser microphone comes in either a large diaphragm or a small diaphragm version.

Small diaphragm condensers will accurately pick up more details, which could work against you by picking up unwanted noises from your instrument. For example, the extra detail could accentuate the bow friction against the strings and make notes sound sharp to the ears.

Because violins can have sharper transients, I would recommend against a small-diaphragm condenser as your go-to violin microphone.

On the other hand, large-diaphragm condensers tend to round out transients and have a smoother response.

A large-diaphragm condenser can run from a couple of hundred dollars to thousands of dollars. While the cheaper condensers are very high-quality these days, they have drawbacks.

Manufacturers of cheaper condenser microphones often add a boost in the high-end to give an “airy” brightness to recordings. However, high-frequency instruments like the violin can add extra brittleness and bite, making your recording sound tinny and irritating.

While you can remedy this later with equalization, de-essing, and compression, it isn’t always the most efficient workflow.

This is where spending a little more on a microphone can save you tons of time and headache.

If you’re willing to spend a little extra on a large-diaphragm condenser, then you could get one that has a tube in it.

Tubes add a “fatness” to an audio recording and a subtle saturation that is pleasing to the ears (think vinyl records).

Tubes often will accentuate the midrange of an instrument. Because of this characteristic, they could be a fantastic option for violinists looking for a little more vintage color from their microphone instead of a high-fidelity sound.

Great options for a large-diaphragm condenser with a tube are Warm Audio’s Warm Audio WA-251 for a brighter, airy tone or the WA-47 for a thicker, mid-range tone.

Ribbon microphones have a natural suppression in the high-end and are known for being highly natural-sounding and warm. They are incredibly effective for recording acoustic stringed instruments like a violin.

One downside of ribbon microphones, especially regarding recording in your home, is that they have a figure-8 polar pattern. This means that the microphone picks up sound from both the front and the back. Because of this, ribbons can often pick up reflections off walls and hard surfaces, which could be not ideal for getting a clean recording. This is especially true if you choose to not treat your room with acoustic panels.

Also, cheap ribbon microphones are usually not worth it. If you’re looking for a quality ribbon microphone, you will need to spend at least $500-600 dollars.

Some of the most popular ribbon microphones run up to 1,000+ for one, so a ribbon isn’t a small purchase.

However, suppose you properly treat your room and are looking to record your violin for years to come. In that case, the investment into a quality ribbon microphone is well worth it.

If you want to find a tremendous all-around ribbon that won’t break the bank, check out the Royer R-10.

All in all, microphones are a critical component of getting a pro-sounding recording of your acoustic violin. However, when it comes to choosing the right one, it comes down to what will be the most efficient for you.

Short cheat sheet:

A cheaper condenser = clean and detailed recording but with an emphasis on high-end that can make your violin sound tinny and irritating. You will need to learn how to EQ, compress, and de-ess for it to sound right.

An expensive condenser = A very detailed and lively sounding recording. If you have transformers and tubes in the build, it will add more color to the recording. You will need little post-processing to make it sound professional with excellent performance.

Ribbon Microphone = An expensive option, but the go-to choice for most audio engineers to record acoustic violin. A ribbon attenuates the high-end, giving the recording a more natural and warm sound. However, ribbon microphones have low output, requiring a special pre-amplifier to improve their performance.

Microphone position

After choosing your microphone, you will need to know how to position it to get the most out of it.

The general rule of thumb with microphone positioning in regards to recording your acoustic violin is to keep it about 6”-12” above your instrument with the capsule pointing to where the neck connects with the violin’s body.

However, it’s important to note that this might not always be the best option for you as you record your violin.

The challenge with standardizing microphone placement is that it really depends on your room, the microphone, and your playing style.

If you want less room sound, you will want to have the microphone closer to your violin.

Suppose you happen to have a charming, reverberant room. In that case, you might want to have the microphone further back to capture the natural ambiance.

However, there are challenges to both of these placements.

Having your microphone too close to your violin can impede your performance, pick up a lot of unwanted noises, and emphasize the low end.

When your microphone is too far away, you will lose low end and create a sense of air around your recording that might be difficult to make present when you mix and master.

At the end of the day, you will need to experiment with different placements and see what sounds best.

Side Note: Mono vs. Stereo

It’s popular to record acoustic violin with two microphones (in stereo). However, as you are learning how to record your violin from home, it’s best to stick with one microphone (in mono).

This will help reduce complex issues, like phase issues, and ensure you get better recordings quicker.

The audio interface

An audio interface takes an analog signal and converts it into a digital signal so it can go into your computer for capturing and processing.

Audio interfaces can be highly affordable ($100+) to insanely expensive ($3000+).

For recording a great-sounding violin track, you don’t need to buy an expensive interface.

In fact, there is an excellent interface by Universal Audio called the Volt 1. This interface has one preamp, a headphone out, phantom power to power a condenser, monitor outs, and tons of included software.

The price of the Volt is just over $100 and is a fantastic value for the money.

Another great thing about this interface is its “vintage” mode. This adds subtle harmonics to the signal, which rounds out transients. This can be highly beneficial for an acoustic violin track to help tame harsh frequencies and get a smoother-sounding recording.

The software

Suppose you’ve followed the advice in this article. In that case, the software you use to sweeten your acoustic violin tracks should be minimal and straightforward.

There are great free Digital Audio Workstations (DAWs) on the market with free plugins to help you take your recorded track to be radio-ready.

If you have a Mac, then you can use GarageBand. If you have Windows, you could use Audacity.

This software will take time to get used to, but don’t let them overwhelm you. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube that will help you understand the basics of recording, mixing, and mastering to ensure your recording sounds pro.

When learning how to record your own tracks, the challenge is overdoing it with post-processing.

In reality, you only need 3 tools to make a track sound excellent.

  1. EQ
  2. Compressor
  3. Reverb

When starting out with equalization, you should cut frequencies more than boost them. When recording in your home, you often have weird resonances from the room and uneven frequency response of your instrument from poor mic placement.

The quickest way to make your instrument sound better is to try and remove mid-range “mud” and notch out any harsh frequencies (1).

Compressors are also easy to overuse. A compressor evens your playing dynamics by making quiet parts louder and louder parts quieter.

There are many controls on a compressor that are intimidating and confusing at first. But the one feature of a compressor that is easy to understand is the gain reduction meter (the little needle). If that needle goes above 3-5 dB of gain reduction, you are using too much.

Also, another problem with compression is if you recorded your violin at a distance, you would bring up the room noises the more you compress. If you are recording in a not-ideal room, this will make your recording sound noisy and chaotic (2).

Reverb will be where you artificially bring back to life that wonderful and airy sound that all great violin recordings have.

Reverb is like adding salt to a food recipe. If you add too much, that one ingredient overpowers everything else. However, if you add too little, your food will taste bland and uninspiring.

Reverb is all about personal taste, and you will need to experiment and listen to get the right amount (3).

The more you experiment with these three processors, you will gain more confidence and understand how to use them properly. You will make more intuitive mixing decisions that will give you a pro-sounding acoustic violin recording.

In conclusion

Suppose you’re serious about your acoustic violin playing and want to take your skills to the next level. In that case, it’s time you invest in some essential recording equipment and software.

With a little bit of effort, you can create high-quality recordings from the comfort of your own home. Recordings that will impress your friends, help you grow as a musician, and maybe open up some new business opportunities for you!

Brad Johnson (guest author of this article) is a musician and producer from Southern California. When he isn’t spending time with his wife and kids at the beach, he is helping musicians at Song Production Pros.

Brad Johnson

Author and Songwriter, Song Production Pros

Why play the violin without shoulder rest?

I accidentally started playing the violin without shoulder rest

And no, this wasn’t because I forgot my shoulder rest at a concert. That happened some years ago though. It wasn’t exactly comfortable to walk on stage like that, haha! I felt completely naked.

Cold turkey isn’t the way to start playing without shoulder rest

It requires an adjustment of your violin hold and playing technique in general: left hand technique, position shifts and vibrato. ​​

This time it was because I was experimenting with different chinrests. Suddenly I found one that seemed to be more comfortable when I ditched the shoulder rest, so I tried that for some weeks.

Now you might be wondering what the advantage of playing without shoulder rest is.

First of all your violin sounds more resonant without shoulder rest

I picked the VLM Augustin Diamond shoulder rest I play with for the last 10 or so years, because it doesn’t mute the violin as much as for example a Wolf rest. It has special feet. However, the violin is a delicate instrument and the shape has been optimized. When you put on whatever type of shoulder rest, this will always have a muting effect.

When playing the violin without shoulder rest you’re more free to move and express yourself

You might know that all violinists from the Golden Age of violin playing (1860-1960) and of course also all violin players before that, played without shoulder rest for the simple reason that the shoulder rest wasn’t invented.

You’ll understand that it’s a myth that playing without a shoulder rest stops you from doing position shifts and vibrato, because those players played all the virtuoso repertoire.

​​Their playing technique was different from current performers

The weight of the violin is balanced between the collar bone and the left hand. The fingering they choose is often with smaller position shifts in which you sneak like a cate instead of release the neck and grab the next position out of thin air (very difficult to practice).

The violin hold is flexible without shoulder rest

You can move around the scroll and tilt the violin in different ways to support you in creating sound. For example you might tilt the violin forward to be able to dig into the G string. When playing on the E string you might tilt the violin in a different direction. There’s a dynamical relation to your bowing technique.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

In the short couple of weeks I played without shoulder rest I certainly noticed these two differences. I loved the more resonant sound from my violin

I found it a challenge not to clench the violin between my shoulder and chin, but to play with the dynamical violin hold.

Playing the violin without shoulder rest is a matter of letting go, like riding the bicycle without training wheels.

Watch my first performance video without shoulder rest right here.

For me it’s hard to experiment with things, because I have such a busy recording schedule and have to play a lot. This means that I can’t try around and take time, but I have to teach and perform in a correct and intense way right away instantly.

For now I switched back to my old set up, just because it was hard for me to do long recording sessions in a set up I wasn’t used to yet. Also I lacked the time to experiment with a new technique.

When I have some time between recordings, I’ll definitely try again, but I’m not sure I’ll stick with it.

Comment below if you play WITH or WITHOUT shoulder rest!

I’d love to read what you’ve tried and what set up you’re playing with at the moment. Let’s give each other ideas.

How hard is it REALLY to play Vivaldi’s Four Seasons on the violin?

How to know if you’re ready to play Vivaldi’s Four Seasons on the violin

Read this article to know if and when you can start practicing it

Vivaldi’s Four Seasons is a cycle consisting of four violin concertos, one for each season of the year. Each violin concerto consists of three movements. Here are the official names:

  • Violin Concerto No. 1 in E major, Op. 8, RV 269, “Spring”

  • Violin Concerto No. 2 in G minor, Op. 8, RV 315, “Summer”

  • Violin Concerto No. 3 in F major, Op. 8, RV 293, “Autumn”

  • Violin Concerto No. 4 in F minor, Op. 8, RV 297, “Winter”

How difficult are these violin concertos?

You dream of playing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons might be closer than you think. Of course they are monumental violin pieces, but technically they are nowhere as difficult as Paganini caprices or the Tschaikovsky concerto.

The difficulty of these baroque violin concertos lies more in that they are very perfect and clean and that you can very easily hear if you are just slightly wrong.

The good news however is that if you know some position play, you can already play these pieces.

What violin techniques and skills are required for playing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons?

Position play

Usually baroque pieces aren’t in really high positions, simply because the baroque violin had a shorter fingerboard than our modern (‘normal’) violin of today.

In the Summer concerto we see the highest position work, but that’s just the 7th position. You don’t need to worry about big jumps. In the bars before it, you have the chance to shift up in scale like patterns. This makes it possible for violin players with not much position experience to play these pieces.

In the Spring we see the 6th position from bar 50, but again you have plenty of opportunity for small position shifts in the bars that go before that.

They high note passages are often possible to be played in one position and shifting up or down by one or two positions.

Vivaldi’s Four Seasons is written very ‘violinistically’ in the sense that the runs are very convenient for a violinist.

Fast runs

What we know Vivaldi’s Four Seasons for are the impressive fast runs. Because of these the pieces might seem intimidating.

In the picture you see some fast runs from Winter. Don’t worry too much about them. Most are scale runs, so if you’ve been consistently practicing your scales, these runs will come out without much trouble.

There are no runs with weird inconvenient notes. Once you start practicing them, you’ll notice that you can quickly get them up to tempo.

Double stops

There are not many double stops passages in Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. The most well known are probably in Autumn. 

The double stops are mostly thirds and quite repetitive. The difficulty in this is that you need to be very consistent in your intonation and they are very clean. It’s easy to hear mistakes. Because there are not many double stops to study, this is quite doable even if you haven’t got much experience with double stops.

Violin pieces that are just as difficult as Vivaldi’s Four Seasons

Pieces of about the same level would be Beethoven’s violin romances, Haydn’s concerto in C major and Mozart’s concerto no 4 in D major.

Pieces leading up to Vivaldi’s Four Seasons could be the Bach double concerto, Bach violin concerto in A minor, Accolay concerto in A minor and of course the easier concertos by Vivaldi like op 3 no 3 in G major and no 6 in A minor.

The big romantic violin concertos by Bruch, Mendelssohn, Brahms and Tschaikovsky are considered technically much harder than Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. Also works by violin virtuosos like Paganini and Wieniawski are generally considered more difficult. Are you playing those? Then you’re definitely read to play Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. 

Are you playing Bach’s sonatas and partitas? Then you’re ready to pick up Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. Most of the sonatas and partitas are considered just as hard or even harder.

Of course as violin players we all have our own strengths and weaknesses. What’s easy for you might be perceived as hard by someone else.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Let me help you find a great bow for your violin, so you can improve your bowing technique and sound quality:

Which of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons is the most difficult? And which is easiest to start with?

In general could be said that the slow second movements from each concerto are technically a lot less demanding than the faster first and third movements.

All Four Seasons are about of the same level, so I would recommend to start with the one that speaks to you most.

As a violin teacher in general I would say that Summer has longer passages of fast and high runs compared to Spring. Winter also has a lot of fast runs in a row. You might want to start with Spring or Autumn and do Winter and Summer later. But… the difficulty level is perceived differently by individual students, so if that order doesn’t speak to you, please ignore what I just wrote.

What etudes are just as difficult as Vivaldi’s Four Seasons?

It’s a bit of a weird comparison of course. I’d say the harder etudes in the Mazas books and the easier etudes in the Kreutzer book are comparable to Vivaldi’s Four Seasons’ difficulty level.

If you’re practicing Rode, Fiorillo or Dont, you can definitely start playing Vivaldi’s Four Seasons.

Solo part vs orchestral parts

The first violin and second violin parts from the orchestral accompaniment for Vivaldi’s Four Seasons are MUCH easier to play than the solo part. They don’t really go beyond third position and you don’t have the fast runs and double stops. If the solo parts are out of your reach, you can definitely enjoy playing these beautiful well known melodies in an orchestra. For example join my virtual orchestra!

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

What is your goal?

Once I had a student and her dream was to play Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, but she could hardly play in the third position. We just started it… Yes, you might judge me as a teacher to do this with her. The thing was that she was losing motivation for the violin. I discovered that she mainly wanted to play those well known melodies and didn’t care much about playing all of the concertos. We skipped the hard bits that were out of her reach and she enjoyed playing the bits that were within her reach very much. She could express herself in the melodies she had heard Janine Jansen play a thousand times in her room from her CD player.

Are you passionate about Vivaldi’s Four Seasons? Start now! You don’t have to get to a concert level. Enjoy just some melodies, the orchestra parts or the entire solo parts.

The best way to learn Vivaldi’s Four Seasons

Together with concert violinists Antal Zalai and Vivien Hoffman I’ve created the ultimate online course to learn the solo violin parts of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons.

Antal Zalai has made an exclusive video curriculum. What makes the course very effective is the possibility to send in videos of your playing for feedback. In this way you know exactly where and how you need to improve to get fast progress. Tuition comes with lifetime access, so you can learn completely at your own pace and come back whenever you like.

Let’s make your violin dream come true!

6 Best Violin Bow Brands of 2022

Video reviews of the best violin bows to buy, their differences, how to choose a good bow and how much they cost.

Improve your sound and bow technique!

Why does a good violin bow matter?

A good violin bow doesn’t only influence your sound quality. It ‘helps’ you improve your bowing technique, develop your violin playing and makes things easier for you. With a good bow you don’t have to trip over those fast runs and different bowing techniques are a lot easier.

A cheap and bad bow can really hold you back in learning the violin. With some bows it’s simply not possible to get a good tone, stop bow shakes, bow straight and make a consistent sound. Jumping bowing techniques and fast runs are very difficult with a bad quality bow.

What to look for when buying a violin bow?

The two most important things to look at are:

How does the bow sound on your violin?

How does the bow play for you and how does it help your bowing technique?

Read here what you should play when testing and comparing violins bows. Read here about the characteristics to look for when you buy a bow.

Cheap vs expensive violin bows

Does a good violin bow have to cost a fortune?

Thanks to carbon fiber it’s possible to produce very decent beginner bows below $ 100, like this one, and all round performance bows suitable for professionals around $ 1.000. Click here to read all about how much different levels of violin bows cost to find out what you should spend on a bow.

Are carbon fiber violin bows any good?

They are the future! Wood is not used for bows because it is the best material or has the best resonance, but simply was the ONLY material available for centuries. Read here all the nitty gritty details and science behind wooden vs carbon fiber violin bows to decide what’s best for you.

 

Best Carbon Fiber Bow Brand of 2021

gold mounted violin bowArcus makes high density carbon fiber bows. There’s 80% carbon fiber in the bow and less other materials like epoxy. Other carbon fiber bows have around 60% carbon or less in the cheaper bows. Because of this the bow resonates better and produces a better and larger tone with less effort.

Arcus bows are lighter and stiffer than other bows, so you can perform advanced bowing techniques with more ease, reliability and speed. The bows are all hand made in Germany and available in lots of different types and classes.

In my violin bow guide I have review videos on all different classes and types of Arcus bows, so you can decide which one is the best fit for you and your violin.

Unfortunately these bows are not for everyone as they start around $ 1.000, therefore I’d like to introduce…

Best Cheap Violin Bow: Fiddlerman

Fiddlerman Carbon Fiber Weave Violin Bow reviewIf you’re looking for a decent beginner bow below $ 100, Fiddlerman bows offer the best value for money and excellent customer service. In this video you can hear how it sounds and what I think about the playability as a professional violinist.

Do you have a small budget, but do you want to upgrade the bow that came with your violin outfit? Then this is the best bow for your buck. Even as a beginner you’ll notice great improvement in sound quality and ease of bowing.

Best All Round Violin Bow: CodaBow

codabow marquise violin bow reviewProbably the most popular carbon fiber bows at the moment: the American brand CodaBow. The Prodigy and Diamond NX are excellent beginner bows that feel very stable. For more advanced bowing techniques, look into the Diamond SX, GX and Marquise. The last two are all round performance bows, also suitable for professional players.

In my violin bow guide you can find videos in which two professional violinists demonstrate and discuss the most popular CodaBows, so you can decide which one is best for you.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Let me help you find a great bow for your violin, so you can improve your bowing technique and sound quality:

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

Best Looking Violin Bow Brand: JonPaul

JonPaul Carrera violin bow reviewTraditional craftsmanship after the example of the great French masters applied to excellent carbon fiber bows: JonPaul bows have the traditional look and feel of antique violin bows with the advantages of carbon fiber.

In my violin bow guide two professional violinist demonstrate and discuss the Corona, Muse and Carrera. The first two are good quality beginner or intermediate bows. The Carrera is an all round performance bow and stands out as the best of the three.

Best Intermediate Violin Bow Brand: Müsing

Müsing Violin C5 violin bow reviewI already mentioned Arcus bows aren’t accessible for everyone starting at $ 1.000, but luckily the company heard our prayers and introduced the Müsing line.

Starting below $ 500 they offer an excellent stiff and light bow with a great resonance. The C4 and C5 around $ 1.000 are great professional bows competing with the lower end Arcus bows.

Watch and listen to the differences between the classes in my violin bow guide.

Cheapest Violin Bow a Violin Teacher can Recommend

yinfante ebay violin bow reviewThe Yinfante $ 29 bow available on eBay is one in a million

Even with the smallest budget it’s possible to get a decent beginner bow that’s better than most bows ‘coming with’ a cheap violin outfit.

Watch this video in which two professional violinist play some virtuoso repertoire with this bow and discuss al it’s qualities.

What violin bow do you have? And what’s the bow of your dreams?

Let me know in the comments below! Also if you have questions about what bow fits YOU best, let me know and I’m happy to advise you.

How great it is to be an amateur musician

In the violin world it’s often only about child prodigies and becoming a pro. Sometimes we tend to forget that music is a fun social activity that is open for all levels and ages. When I got this wonderful e-mail from Charles, I immediately wanted to share it with you, so I’m doing so with his permission:

Written by: Charles Gagnebin, retired attorney

I have been nothing more than an amateur musician since childhood and have loved what it means to me to stay an amateur and not worry about the inability to be professional.

There is so much you read online which takes a negative view towards being an amateur musician.

I find that frustrating since to me being an amateur, mainly on piano and violin, is a gem of my life at age 80.

I was never allowed to take music lessons in my youth because of a fear of my parents that I might spend too much time in music which was a problem of a nephew at the time. My father had been in the Harvard Banjo Club in the 1920s so I played with and taught myself how to play his old tenor banjo still residing in our house. I remember a high school teacher condemning that instrument.

After I graduated from Harvard and started a job at MIT on a track towards my career as a patent lawyer I warmed up musically by buying a used piano from a technician there to help me try to learn to sing so that I could pass the audition to sing in the MIT Choral Society. The singing turned out to be a total failure but playing the piano became an early amateur music gem in my life. I taught myself the basics of playing and early on discovered the beauty of playing fakebook style in which the left hand music was essentially chords matching the melody of the right hand music. Many books were and are available with fakebook music of all styles presented in a relatively easy to play form. Many people still look on that form of playing as bad but if you focus your music life at the amateur level those comments are meaningless and it makes you play easily, comfortably and joyfully. I only started taking piano lessons over 30 years later when my wife and I stopped on the way home from work at a music store for her to take guitar lessons that left me sitting for half an hour with nothing to do. That encouraged me to start taking piano lessons from the nice teachers there. She gave me no serious pressure to abandon fakebook but encouraged me to learn both hand playing in the normal style to develop my hand skills on the piano. We became such good friends that several years later she and her spouse to be asked me to become ordained and perform their wedding in New Hampshire which of course I did gleefully.

About the time I started a brief period of piano lessons my wife and I started contradancing and I was so impressed to see live fiddle playing at contradances that I convince myself to take up playing a bowed instrument, starting of course with a viola tuned the same as my father‘s tenor banjo. A few months later I got a real Violin and three months after that went to Mark O’Connors fiddle camp outside of Nashville Tennessee in June 2000. I remember with total comfort taking a lesson from Martin Hayes who’s one comment stuck with me endlessly and that was “keep it fun”. That establishes the value of being an amateur, playing as well as you can at an amateur level and loving the results of what you do as an amateur. I continue to play both piano and fiddle with endless comfort. I play classical, folk and bluegrass mainly. I have even made a few short recordings for professional level use by friends after a period of working on the tune.
This all comes down to being an amateur musician needs to be seen at a level of fun and simplicity that makes you enjoy your playing to the maximum possible. Continuing to learn is of course important but without the pressure to aim toward a professional level.

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