400 Years of Violin Music

25 Beautiful violin pieces that mark the different style periods of over 400 years of violin music

Sit back, listen and learn

Violin playing through the centuries has undergone remarkable transformations, due to changes in culture, taste, and the instrument itself. We are privileged to have four centuries of violin music at our fingertips. This article explores sonatas and concertos from the early 17th century to the present day. 

In the Baroque era, (1600-1750) violins looked different than they do now. They were typically smaller (there wasn’t really a standard size) with a shorter and downward-sloped neck. The bows curved out instead of in and also varied in length. Bows were developing constantly during this period, finally reaching the bow we know today in the 1780s. Steel strings were not yet invented, so all violin used cat or sheep-gut strings.

Antonio Stradivari began making violins in the 1670s, and over the next several decades became the most renowned violin-maker in Italy. His standardization of the size and shape of violins is essentially what we still use today.

1621: Sonata Seconda by Dario Castello

Dario Castello was a Venetian composer of the early Baroque period. At this time, improvisation was key to the musical style. Players would read the music but add all sorts of trills and embellishments as they felt moved, with fluid and varying tempi. This natural imbuing of the player’s personal touch gives baroque music a very soulful and sincere aura. While trills and improvisation are big factors in this piece, there is very little shifting as it was uncommon at the time.

1676: Passacaglia for Solo Violin by Heinrich Ignaz Franz Biber

This is the final solo movement from Biber’s fifteen Rosary Sonatas for Violin and Continuo. Written in 1696 but unknown until being published in 1905, it is a technically demanding work with many chords, trills, and a wide emotional range. Although not nearly as famous as Bach’s Chaconne, it is still Biber’s best-known work and deserves much more attention.

1697: Sonata in G Minor by Henry Purcell

Henry Purcell was a prolific English composer and today one of the best remembered of the Baroque era. He is best known for his operas and choral works, but this charming violin sonata shows his abilities as an instrumental composer with a uniquely English flair.

Pub. 1692: Sonata No. 3 by Ignazio Albertini

Italian composer Ignazio Albertini’s set of twelve violin sonatas, published posthumously in 1692, are his only surviving works. One of the reasons for this is because he was murdered shortly after writing them. These pieces are Baroque hidden gems for their emotional tension and colorful passage work. 

1711:  Concerto in A Minor by Antonio Vivaldi

You may not have heard of Albertini but you’ve heard of this guy! And if you’re a violinist you’ve probably played this piece. An early example of the brand-new concerto form, it is for one violin soloist and string orchestra, the typical ensemble at the time. This and other Vivaldi concertos make great student repertoire because they do not go above third position while exploring delightful baroque techniques such as barriolage, or crossing between two strings very quickly.

1724: Concerto in B-flat major by Giovanni Pergolesi

 Pergolesi was a very popular composer who died at only 26, so other composers than started to write his name on their music so they could sell it to people who didn’t know he was dead. Fortunately, this piece is actually by him. It is more technically demanding than many earlier violin pieces, with more shifting into the high register and some very challenging barriolages with simultaneous doublestops!

1730: Concerto in A Minor by J.S. Bach

For such an active composer, it may seem strange that J.S. Bach has only three surviving violin concertos. All three, however, are standard repertoire and frequently performed by students and professionals. This concerto is his first for violin. It contains beautiful interplay between the soloist and accompaniment, both of whom gracefully shape the constant sixteenth notes through varying dynamics and sequences.

1775: Concerto No. 4 in D Major by W.A. Mozart

Mozart’s violin concertos are some of the few classical violin concertos still considered among the very major solo repertoire. The third, fourth, and fifth are the most frequently performed, including at major competitions. This one requires shifting very high during very fast passages. It also has room for cadenzas, where the soloist plays an even more demanding improvisatory section before the orchestra comes back in. 

1806: Concerto in D Major by L. Beethoven

Many would consider this the epitome of classical violin concertos. At a cool forty-five minutes long, it is one of the most demanding concertos ever written. The accompaniment is for full orchestra, not just string ensemble or strings with a few woodwinds. It is a marathon for the soloist that requires high technical precision and emotional depth.

1811-1817: Concerto No. 1 by Nicolo Paganini

Paganini made a huge name for himself writing and performing his own pieces. He wrote six violin concertos, but the first is the most famous. Incredible virtuoso that he was, he shows no mercy to the soloist by directly opening with huge jump shifts and sixteenth-note doublestops in thirds. The orchestral accompaniment is mostly very classical but the solo part definitely starts leaning into the new Romantic style.

1844: Concerto in E Major by Felix Mendelssohn

Mendelssohn was another composer toing the line between Classicism and Romanticism. Although this concerto opens somewhat reserved, it quickly spiral deeper into Romanticism as the piece continues. There are multiple cadenzas that Mendelssohn actually wrote in himself, and the second movement contains one of the most beautiful melodies in all violin music.

1853: Concerto No. 1 in F-sharp in D Minor by Henryk Wieniawski

Like Paganini, Polish violinist Wieniawski made a name for himself playing his own music. This concerto is unabashed Romanticism. The orchestra frequently drops out while the soloist plays double-stops or dramatic motifs alone before dropping to barely a whisper again.

1867: Concerto No. 1 in G Minor by Max Bruch

Bruch was hated by fellow composers during his life because of how popular this concerto was. Ultimately the joke’s on them because everyone still loves it. It is romantic and powerful without sacrificing any melodic charm. The third movement is particularly challenging because it opens with thirds very high on the E string.

1874: Symphonie Espagnole by Edouard Lalo 

This concerto is very unusual because it contains five movements instead of the traditional three. This piece marked the beginning of an era when Spanish-influenced music was all the rage and inspired many other composers. This work is thrilling to play for both soloist and orchestra.

1878: Tchaikovsky, Brahms, and Dvorak!

If you were a violinist in 1878 you had it good. Tchaikovsky, Brahms, and Dvorak all wrote their incredible concertos in that year!

Tchaikovsky was inspired to write his own violin concerto after listening to Lalo’s. He wrote it at his country villa while trying to overcome depression. There is, however, no trace of depression in this hopeful, joyous piece.

The Brahms concerto is not always as melodic as Tchaikovsky’s, but it sounds very much like a symphony with solo violin. Although like Tchaikovsky’s it was declared unplayable by some violinists at the time, it has made and kept its place in the favorite repertoire. 

Dvorak’s violin concerto, started in 1878 and finished in 1879, is not always as well-known among non-violinists, but it is another fiery, gorgeous piece. Dvorak wrote it in honor of the great violinist Joseph Joachim, but Joachim never performed it in public.

It is fascinating that three of the greatest violin concertos were all written within a year of each other, and none of them got the immediate recognition they deserved. Fortunately, they are now all frequently performed around the world, having outlasted their critics.

1904: Concerto in D Minor by Jean Sibelius

This concerto was another near flop. Sibelius revised the concerto the following year and that is the version we are now familiar with. The fascinating thing about this concerto is that Sibelius himself had tried becoming a violinist, so all the markings are incredibly specific because he knew exactly what he wanted. It is the only concerto he ever wrote, and like the Brahms or Beethoven is very symphonic.

1920: Concerto No. 2 in G Minor by Sergei Prokofiev

This 20th century concerto is full of chromaticism and modern ambiguity. There are frequent key and sudden mood changes The mysterious opening leaves the listener questioning what will come next. Some parts also call for the soloist to use a mute, something not often asked for in concertos but which creates more color possibilities. It is not all frantic though. The agitated first movement gives way to a gentle, almost child-like second theme.

1939: Concerto by Samuel Barber

While other composers experimented with atonal concertos, American composer Samuel Barber opted for sheer transcendent beauty. He originally conceived the work for only two movements, both full of flowing nostalgic melodies and shimmering chords. He later added a virtuosic and third movement that is essentially five pages of non-stop swift triplets that is completely unexpected in character after the other movements.

1948: Concerto in C Major by Dmitry Kabalevsky

Kabalevsky was a Russian composer who was most famous for his piano compositions. While teaching piano in a school he realized there was a lack of material suitable for children. He then dedicated his time to writing pieces that children could both learn from and enjoy. His 16-minute violin concerto is very popular among serious young students.

1955: Concerto No. 1 in A Minor by Dmitri Shostakovich

The concerto contains four movements with somewhat unusual titles: Nocturne, Scherzo, Passacaglia and Burlesque. It is scored for full orchestra and several percussion instruments, including xylophone. It was dedicated to David Oistrakh and he worked with Shostakovich on several revisions before performing it. Because of the severe atmosphere of censorship in the Soviet Union, Shostakovich refrained from publishing his concerto until after Stalin’s death so it could be freely received.

1993: Concerto by György Ligeti

This five-movement concerto explores the limits of what the violin can do. It particularly focuses on the overtone series, so the soloist has to play a lot of harmonics. Uniquely, the concertmaster and principal violist are asked to adjust their instruments’ tuning to better match the natural harmonic series. Another unusual thing is that four of the wind players use ocarinas during the second movement.

2008: Concerto by Jennifer Higdon

Three different orchestras and the Curtis Institute of Music commissioned this concerto for violinist Hilary Hahn. Highly demanding and creative, Higdon said she imagined Hilary Hahn racing through the Olympics while writing the final movement entitled “Flying Forward.” It received the 2010 Pulitzer Prize for Music.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

2017: Concerto in G Minor by Alma Deustcher

Still only in her teens, violinist, pianist, and composer Alma Deustcher is committed to reexploring the inherent beauty of classical music. Her works are reminiscent of a much earlier time, because she is more interested in what is beautiful than the latest compositional trends. Her violin concerto is full of her unique musical personality and equal to many of the Romantic works. Works such as these bring hope for the future of new violin compositions.

7 Hardest Violin Pieces of All Times

7 Most difficult pieces to play on the violin

From Locatelli to Paganini and from Bach to Bartok: these are the hardest violin pieces ever written

Listen how they sound and read why they are hard

The violin is known for it’s virtuosity and the many possibilities of the instrument. The hardest violin pieces have lightning fast runs high up the fingerboard, tricky left hand pizzicato passages, lots of double stops and chords and harmonics.

I’d like to show you seven hardest violin pieces ever written. Of course there are many more and it was hard to make this selection. You are free to have an opinion which violin pieces are really the hardest and why. There are way more virtuosic violin pieces to discover.

I picked out hardest violin pieces from as much different periods and performers as possible: baroque, romantic, modern, solo and orchestral pieces, new and older recordings.

Paganini – God save the King

Paganini will probably be the name you think of first when you think about the most difficult violin pieces. I could have chosen various works, like his 24 caprices, ‘I Palpiti’ or ‘Nel cor pie non mi sento’. What stands out in God save the king are the extremely fast and impossible left hand pizzicato sections accompanied by a drone and the melody in double stops.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Locatelli – Labyrinth Caprice in D Major

‘Il labirinto armonico’

Perhaps you wouldn’t expect a baroque piece in this list. Locatelli’s L’arte del violino took both violin technique and the solo concerto to whole new level. What makes this piece difficult are the endless arpeggios on tricky chords high up the violin.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Wieniawski – Violin Concerto no 1

This violin concerto includes lightning fast virtuosic runs, double stops, difficult bowing techniques like ricochet and long up-bow staccato, arpeggios and more. Wieniawski composed it at the ripe old age of… 17 years! He was inspired by Paganini, Ernst and Vieuxtemps.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Ernst – Last Rose of Summer

Being a big fan of Paganini, Ernst loved including some impossible left hand pizzicato in his music. The tune itself is a simple folk tune based on Thomas Moore’s poem. Ernst’s work includes very difficult variations on this melody with lots of double stops where it seems you hear two violins play and also arpeggios where the violin accompanies it’s melody with chords.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Ysaÿe – Violin Sonata no 6

Fast double stop runs, lots of chords and complex string crossings make this one of the most difficult violin sonatas.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Bartok – Violin Concerto no 2

This violin concerto is one the great violin concertos of the 20th century. It includes twelve-tone elements, which for violinist are hard for the ear and intonation. There are double stops passages where the violinist plays two voices.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Bach – Chaconne from Partita 2

Most monumental piece in violin repertoire. It’s not so crazy virtuosic as the previous pieces, but it’s very long and musically it’s very complex to make a meaningful performance. Technically the chords and string crossings make it difficult. At the same time it should sound with a certain serenity like it isn’t difficult.

Click here to download the free violin sheet music.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

What’s your favorite virtuosic violin piece?

Maybe you don’t agree at all with my list of hardest violin pieces ;).

What comes to mind when you think about the most difficult violin piece ever written?

Have you played on of these pieces or attempted to?

Use the comment section underneath to share with each other what YOU consider the hardest violin piece. I’d love to read it!

Best Violin Case: 2022 Buying Guide

What’s the best violin case?

There is no hard and fast answer to this question. The best violin case is the one that works best for you and fits your needs, preferences, and lifestyle. In this article, you’ll understand the types of violin cases, their pros and cons, and how to decide which case is right for you.

What types of violin cases are there?

Hard cases vs. soft cases

Hard violin cases have a hard, shell-like exterior, while soft cases are usually made out of fabric and conform to the shape of your instrument. I strongly recommend going with a hard case simply because it offers much more protection than a soft case. They may be a bit heavier, but there are a plethora of great lightweight hard case options available.

I know that for guitar soft cases are far more popular than for violin. This is because the violin has a bridge that is fragile and can break and damage the instrument when it breaks or falls down. Because of the construction of the violin, a soft case or bag is not safe.

Soft violin case

Hard violin case

Shaped cases vs oblong cases

Shaped cases mimic the shape of the violin on the outside. They are often smaller and more lightweight than oblong cases, which look like a simple rectangles on the outside. Oblong cases are generally more spacious and usually dote a sheet music pouch on the outside.

Gewa Air 1.7 Shaped violin case

Gewa Air 2.1 Oblong violin case

Wood vs. fiberglass cases

What is a violin case made of and what’s best?

Wood is the best material for protecting your instrument from the elements. However, this does not mean that all wood cases are amazing! Cheaper wood cases tend to be less protective and much heavier than fiberglass or carbon fiber cases. Even the more expensive wood violin cases are relatively heavy.

Fiberglass cases offer solid protection, but they do have a higher heat conductivity compared to wood, meaning that they get hotter much faster, which may not be ideal if you live in a hotter climate.

Thermoplastic is a great material that is very strong yet light and isolates well against the elements. ABS is also a good option. The downside is that these cases are usually relatively expensive. If you have a precious violin and travel a lot, the safety and convenience are quite worth it though.

Cheap hard violin cases have a foam shell. For light use, say you walk to your violin lesson weekly or just use it at home, this is fine. Just don’t drive over it with your car… well, let’s not try that with other cases as well.

Bobelock 1002 Wooden Oblong Violin Case

Bobelock 1060 Fiberglass Oblong Suspension Violin Case

Attached or detached bow cases

The great majority of cases include a spot for the bow on the inside, however, there are some that include a detachable bow case. This could be ideal for those looking to save space within their case.

Bam Peak Performance Compact Violin Case

with separate bow tube

Bam Artisto Violin Case

with four bow holders inside the case

Do you need to wrap your instrument in silk?

You may have seen your favorite violinist wrap their violin in silk, or even come across ads for silk bags on Facebook. In years past, when cases were exclusively made out of wood, silk wrappings were necessary to keep the violin clean from any excess wood shavings. Nowadays, while beautiful silk bags can be aesthetically pleasing, they are not completely necessary, however, they can keep your case nice and clean from rosin. I only have one because all of my friends in high school had one, so I needed one too 😉

What is that tube in the violin case for?

In some luxury violin cases you will notice a plastic tube. That is for an extra set of strings. Many players simply leave the strings in their packaging and place them in the pocket of their case, but some choose to unfurl them and place them in that tube.

Which violin case is right for me?

There are several factors that will determine which kind of violin case will be right for you.

Size. Are you someone who keeps a lot of extra things in your case (like me?!) Things like extra strings, rosins, pencils, nail clippers, etc. If so, you will need a case with an inside pocket, which is more likely to be larger and oblong-shaped. Additionally, do you want an outside pocket where you can keep your music, or are you okay with carrying an additional bag for your music?

Weight. In my opinion, the lighter the better! Weight is especially important if you travel with your violin quite frequently. If you’re a gigging musician, you’ll most likely need a very light case, but if you are someone who only travels with your violin once a week for your lesson, you could potentially be open to a slightly heavier case.

Transportation. As mentioned above, the lighter the better, especially when it comes to transportation! Additionally, do you want your case to have backpack straps for easy carrying? Do you fly with your violin a lot and therefore need the case to be rather small so that it can fit in the overhead compartment (never check your violin!!!)

Durability. Your violin case needs to not only be able to stand up to the weather but also daily use. Violin cases are almost never replaced because the shell cracked, but often because the zipper broke or the lock stopped working. I know what you might be thinking- how can you tell if a case is durable? Your best bet is going to be choosing a trusted brand like the ones listed below. These brands have built a reputation for a reason.

Equipment. Some cases come with hygrometers, which measure humidity levels, and humidifiers, which correct dryness. These may be extremely important if you live in a particularly humid climate.

Design. The majority of violin cases have a sleek, plain design, but there are some companies that produce more uniquely designed cases. In my opinion, functionality comes first!

Budget. Usually the more options, the firmer, the lighter, the more high tech and the more luxury finish, the more expensive. Choose what fits your budget and what makes sense for your instrument. There are already great violin cases around 100 USD and there are professional luxury cases that cost thousands.

What violin case do professionals use?

Each player has their own preferences, but the majority of professional violinists stick to the top four brands: Bam, Gewa, Bobelock, and Negri.

Bam is a company based out of France (and therefore all of their cases are made in France) which has been operating for over 40 years and is still one of the most highly regarded companies today (My case is a Bam). Bam violin cases are extremely lightweight, come with extremely durable equipment (such as zippers and locks) and are used by many professionals.

Gewa is a company based in the United Kingdom founded in 1925. These cases are known for being some of the most protective cases in the world. Gewa cases feature a specially developed energy-absorbing shell that is extremely strong yet lightweight.

Bobelock case company prides itself on providing the best value for the customer. They import high-quality materials sourced from local businesses all over the world to create protective and affordable cases.

Negri is a German-based company that has been around for over 50 years. Negri cases are extremely high quality and have housed the violins of Yehudi Menuhin, Vadim Repin, and Maxim Vengerov, to name a few.

Negri Diplomat Wooden Violin Case

This case costs over $ 2,000, but if you have a Strad to protect it’s worth every penny!

2022 Violin Case Buying Guide

Now that you know what violin cases there are on the market and what to look out for when buying a violin case, I will point out some great violin cases for you to consider for each budget.

How much does a violin case cost?

There are excellent cases available starting at around 100 USD, and cases with a lot of bells and whistles that go up into the thousands. If you have a budget between 200 to 500 USD, you already have some very nice cases to choose from. 

Best violin case < $ 100

Gewa Bio-S Shaped Violin Case

Gewa is a fantastic brand for violin cases. I’m happy they introduced this light and affordable Bio-S violin case.

Pros

  • Affordable
  • Organic
  • Light
  • Available shaped as well as oblong

Cons

  • Simple case, not much features
  • Not suitable for a lot of travel
  • Not so protective against the elements

Best violin case < $ 200

Bobelock 1007 Puffy Shaped Violin Case

What stands out first when you look into this violin case, is the variety of bright colors to choose from. It’s a sturdy violin case and a good bang for the buck.

Pros

  • Very protective
  • Velvet interior
  • Comes in a variety of colors

Cons

  • Heavier case-weighs 9 pounds
  • Comes with only one shoulder strap

Most Beautiful Violin Case

Gewa Air 1.7 Shaped Violin Case

I love the design of the Gewa Air violin case. It’s very strong and light. The finishing is beautiful. I personally own a glossy black one for years and it’s so durable. Another good option is the Gewa Air Prestige, which is the same case with a slightly different design and a beautiful layer of leather on top of the outside shell.

Pros

  • Strong thermoplastic shell, temperature resistant
  • Light weight: 1.7 kg or 3.52 LBS
  • Extremely durable
  • Numerical locks
  • Gewa’s patented swivel bow holders, which are very durable
  • Removable accessory pouch
  • Several beautiful colors and finishes available
  • Firm padded shoulder straps with safety rings

Cons

  • Velcro rings for the shoulder rest (takes some getting used to, in fact I have my violin in a silk bag and just place the shoulder rest beside it without the velcro rings)
  • No sheet music compartment. For the oblong version you can buy a separate sheet music pouch to place on the outside of the violin case.
  • With a price of around $ 500 it will not be within everybody’s budget, however compared to BAM cases it’s still a reasonable price.

Most functional violin case

Bobelock 1051 “Corregidor” Oblong Violin Case

This is a spacious and luxurious case with plywood shell. There are four bow holders, a string tube, humistat and a hygrometer. The sheet music compartment is the size of the case.

Pros

  • Luxurious finishing
  • Spacious
  • Functional
  • Choose from four interior colors

Cons

  • Relatively heavy compared to for example thermoplastic cases: 8LBS
  • A little over $ 400 will not be within everybody’s budget, but in the end it’s a luxury case

Best Violin Case of All

Bam Hightech Oblong Violin Case With Pocket

Ultralight weight and strong violin case that sort of has it all: it’s light, all you need fits in and it’s very practical. At the same time it’s very safe for your instrument in terms of the strength of the shell and protection against the elements.

It can easily compete with premium cases by Negri or Musafia, but it’s lighter and cheaper. But yes, a thousand dollars is still a lot of cash.

Pros

  • Extremely lightweight
  • Extremely durable
  • Numerical locks
  • Temperature resistant
  • Padded shoulder straps
  • Several colors available
  • Enough space to store

Cons

  • A thousand dollars for a violin case isn’t cheap. As an alternative you could consider the Gewa Air 2.1

Double Violin and Viola Cases

A multi-instrument case can be a great option if you travel lot with two or more instruments: a violin and a viola, a violin and an electric violin or two different violins. Cases for four and more violins are mostly used by violin sellers only. Most popular are double violin and viola cases like this one:

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

What violin case will you buy?

Are you out there buying a violin case? Or are you just interested in the violin cases that are for sale today?

I personally have glossy black Gewa Air 1.7. I always carry a sheet music bag and find it no problem that I can’t put my sheet music in my violin case. First I had a classic wood shell Gewa case. That’s very handy to put all your stuff in, protects your violin well and looks great, but I found it too heavy when traveling around. I went for light and small and am so much happier with my current case.

Let me know what violin case you have in the comments below

I’d love to read it.

Electric Violins: Ultimate 2022 Buying Guide

Why should you play electric violin, what do they cost and which one to buy?

In this article you’ll find all the information you need to decide which electric violin is best for the music you want to make. We start with some basics about electric violins and after that comes a buying guide to electric violins in 2022. Also you’ll get to know some famous electric violinists and how they sound.

What is an electric violin?

An electric violin is a violin equipped with an electric output of sound. An electric violin differs from an acoustic violin in the following seven ways.

Body. An acoustic violin is made of a hollow structure that amplifies the vibration of the strings. An electric violin is made of a solid structure that needs to be connected to an amplifier in order to be heard.

Amplification. An acoustic violin does not need any outside equipment to function. The bridge passes the vibrations of the strings into the sound box, creating a full, solid sound, easily heard by audiences. On the other hand, an electric violin transcribes the vibrations of the strings into an electric signal which is then transferred to an amplifier. The sound quality of an electric violin will heavily depend on the type of bridge it has and the quality and number of the sensors. An electric violin cannot clearly be heard by audiences unless it is connected to an amplifier.

Strings. An acoustic violin has four strings: G D A E. An electric violin can have 4, 5, 6, or even 7 strings! Since electric violins are solid, they have an easier time transmitting lower and higher frequencies, thus expanding their range beyond an acoustic. The extra strings are usually a low C for a 5-string electric, a low C and high B for a 6-string, and a low C, high B, and low F for a 7-string.

Design. Acoustic violins always have the same visual appearance. On the other hand, there are no pre-defined rules for the design of electric violins, thus leaving many elements of the design up to the maker. Electric violins must have a fingerboard, strings, a neck, a bridge, etc (otherwise they couldn’t be played!), but beyond these few constraints, electric violin makers are free to do what they see fit.

Weight. Due to their solid bodies and electronics, electric violins are heavier than acoustic violins.

Sound. An electric violin will not sound the same as an acoustic violin (which makes sense because they produce sound in vastly different ways). Think about the difference between an acoustic guitar and an electric guitar. They sound very different, and each sound is ideal for a certain type of music. Acoustic violins are more appropriate for classical music, while electric violins are more suitable for more popular or electronic music.

Maintenance. Acoustic violins require regular check-ups from a luthier. The hollow structure makes it more fragile and more likely to deteriorate over time. By contrast, most of the time, electric violins do not require much, if any, maintenance. Electric violins are not coated with any type of polish; instead, they’re coated with a very hard and resistant varnish, meant to extend their service life. Of course, it is always important to take care of your violin by washing your hands before use, wiping the rosin dust off, and keeping it in a cool, dry place.

Additionally, electric violins come in a few variations, such as electro-acoustic violins and silent violins. Electro-acoustic violins have a hollow body like a traditional acoustic violin, but also have built-in electronics for amplification. Silent violins have all of the same features and capabilities as electric violins, but with the additional capability of being plugged into headphones, so that only the player can hear its output.

How does an electric violin work?

The bow vibrates the strings. That vibration is then transferred to the wood and a microphone pickup that transforms the vibration into an electric signal. This signal is then output through an amplifier or mixing console, creating the sound the listener hears. Silent violins have the capability for headphones to be plugged into them as another way of sound output. It is important to note that silent violins are never truly silent, so if you’re looking for a way to not disturb your neighbors while practicing, a practice mute might be a better option.

Do you need an amp to play an electric violin?

It depends. If you want your sound to be heard loud and clear, then yes you will need an amplifier. However, if you’re looking to purchase an electric violin for the purpose of late-night practice (and therefore want the sound to be minimal), then an amp isn’t necessary. Without an amp, an electric violin will still sound, but it will be nothing compared to its full capabilities when using an amp. However, an electro-acoustic violin will produce a healthy sound regardless if it is plugged into an amplifier or not.

Are electric violin strings different?

Any strings that work on an acoustic violin work on an electric violin also (for example for guitars this is not always the case). As the sound is produced by electronics, strings make less of a difference for electric violins than for acoustic violins. Often steel strings are chosen for electric violins, because the tuning stability is great, they are very durable for intense playing and they are relatively cheap.

For electric violins that have more than four strings, you’ll need to pick special lower strings that are suitable for the vibrating string length of a violin. You can’t just put cello strings on it ;). Due to the shorter vibrating string, the tension of cello strings will be too low to play. A viola C string will only work as a fifth electric violin string if it’s for a 14 inch viola.

Do electric violins need rosin?

Yes! Electric violins are played in the same way as acoustic violins are, and therefore need rosin to help the bow hair stick to the string and produce the best sound.

Why should you play an electric violin?

There are several reasons why you could choose to play an electric violin over an acoustic.

Playing in a band. When playing in a band, the violin needs to be amplified in order to be heard. An acoustic violin’s sound is nothing compared to an electric guitar! Additionally, bands generally play in large spaces that require a bit of “help” (amplification) of the sound in order for the attendees in the very last row to hear the music as clearly as those in the first.

More strings. As mentioned previously, electric violins can have up to 7 strings! This allows the player to play more notes, create a wider variety of sounds, and play a wider range of music.

Effects and distortions. Electric violins can be used with effect pedals that can add a variety of effects and distortions to the sound.

Minimal sound. Some players may choose to practice with an electric or silent violin to minimize their disturbance while practicing. This may be ideal for late-night practicers or those with finicky neighbors!

Preference. You can play an electric violin simply because you enjoy it more than an acoustic.

Are electric violins the same as acoustic or classical violins?

Yes and no. Electric and acoustic violins are essentially the same instrument (ie they are both violins). The main difference is how they produce sound. Since electric violins are amplified instruments, you are not limited to the soundbox to create sound, therefore it can get better sound in the extreme registers (very low and very high). Although modern acoustic violins have four strings now, in the Baroque period it was not uncommon for them to have six or seven. However, as concert halls became larger, the instruments needed to become louder in order to fill them, and due to the restrictive capabilities of the sound box, they had to split the instrument into two: the modern-day violin and viola. With the invention of electricity, we can go back to these old ideas and get power out of the bottom register and clarity out of the top, all in one instrument, an electric violin.

Wood Viper 6-String Fretted Electric Violin

Fiddlerman Artist Acoustic Violin

Are electric violins good for beginners?

It depends on your reasoning for wanting to play an electric violin. If you want a violin that has a wide range of capabilities (such as effects and distortion), can be almost inaudible for practice purposes, and could possibly be cheaper, then it makes sense to go with an electric violin. However, if you’re thinking about getting an electric violin because you think it will be easier to learn, you will most definitely be disappointed!

Are electric violins easier to play?

In my experience, the only thing that differs between electric and acoustic violins is tone quality. It is slightly easier to get a good sound out of an electric violin. Players have a harder time switching from electric to acoustic than the other way around. I always recommend starting out on an acoustic violin unless you’re sure you exclusively want to play electric.
There are also electric violins that come with frets (like Wood violins), which can be easier for beginners (although putting tapes on an acoustic violin has the same effect).

How do you play an electric violin?

In exactly the same way you play an acoustic. There is nothing different about the technique. Intonation, shifting, vibrato, etc, are all the same!

However, if you choose for an electric violin that has more than four strings, you have more lower notes and you need to get used to the instrument in terms of string crossings.

Electric violins vs. Carbon Fiber violins

Carbon fiber violins are not the same as electric violins. In fact, carbon fiber violins share more in common with acoustics than electrics! Carbon fiber instruments are made out of a mix of carbon fiber and resin. Layers of carbon fiber are placed into a mold and then coated with resin, sealed in a vacuum clamp, and hardened into shape. They look very similar to acoustics (differing only in color), and are played in the same way (ie the strings vibrate the bridge which transmits the vibrations into the hollow body). Carbon fiber violins do not sound the same as acoustics; they resonate differently and generally sound louder and deeper. I cannot say which sounds “better”- that is for you to decide! Carbon fiber violins are most often cheaper and can withstand greater extremes in climate.

Carbon fiber violins can be electric, meaning they have a pick up element. Most carbon fiber violin brands sell their instruments in two variations: the normal ‘acoustic’ one and the electric violin. If you choose the electric option, you essentially have a hybrid instrument that you can use as an acoustic carbon fiber violin without electronics or plug it in and use it as an electric violin.

Mezzo-Forte Carbon Fiber Violin

NS Design CR Electric Violin

Electric Violins vs Silent Violins

If you’re worried about bothering family members or neighbors while practicing violin, you might have thought about buying an electric violin for that reason. When looking to buy an electric violin you might have come across silent violins. Is there any difference?

Some electric violins have a hollow body. This can be just for the looks or it can have an acoustic function. This hollow body will produce sound even if you’re not plugged in.

A lot of electric violins have a solid body. This means that there’s not any type of soundbox. When you play this violin, it won’t be silence, but you just hear the sound of the strings themselves.

Yamaha produces ‘silent violins’, the SV series, which is made for the purpose. This is the silent violin I recommend as you can plug in headphones directly into the instrument and the sound quality on headphones is great. Buy yours right here.

A cheaper solution is a violin practice mute. This makes your acoustic (classical) violin almost as silent as a silent electric violin and costs a few dollars.

PS: You have the right to practice violin in your home. Sure, don’t do it at 2 am or 40 hours a day. Don’t be ashamed that you want to practice violin daily. You hear sounds from your neighbors too.

Yamaha SV-250 Silent Violin

Electric Violins vs Electro-Acoustic Violins

Just as that there are carbon fiber violins with a pick up element, there are also wood acoustic violins that have an integrated pick up.

Electro-Acoustic violins can be used unplugged and then function in the same way as a normal acoustic violin. With the integrated pick up element you can plug it in and use it as an electric violin.

Advantage of this is that you can do both with one instrument, which means you just need to buy one instrument and just need to get used to one instrument. However, a lot of violinists like to have two dedicated instruments: one fully aimed to play electric and one acoustic.

Electro-Acoustic violins can have a carbon fiber soundbox or a traditional wooden soundbox. Sometimes they have a wooden soundbox, but this wood is varnished in a cool color.

If you’re looking for a violin that can do both, there are more options for ‘just’ wood violin than for electro-acoustic violins. 

It’s possible to make your acoustic violin electric. It’s hard enough already to find a great instruments that is a good fit for you. Once you have your precious violin and you want to play amplified, a microphone or a pick up can be a great option. Most are designed in such a way that you don’t have to make permanent adjustments to your instrument. For example when using a microphone with a violin mount, you can easily place and remove it.

Tower Strings Electro Acoustic Violin

Why not use a pick up element instead of buying an electric violin?

Great low budget solution for amplified violin playing!

If you need to play amplified, it’s also an option to place a microphone or pick up element on your violin. In that way you don’t need to buy a whole new instrument.

In case your budget for an electric violin is under $ 500, you might prefer to invest in a high quality microphone or violin pickup instead of a cheap or mediocre electric violin. The overall result might be better.

There are pickups and microphones for violin within all budgets. Also they come in very different shapes and forms: rubber band around your violin, clip on microphone, pickup integrated in the bridge and more.

DPA Microphone for Violin

Realist Violin Pickup

Electric Viola (no joke)

The four string electric violins are tuned just like an acoustic violin: GDAE. The five string electric violins have an extra lower C string, that corresponds to the tuning of viola. With a five string violin you have the range of a violin and viola in one instrument: CGDAE.

If you’re a violist looking for an electric instrument however, I would recommend getting a dedicated electric viola. An electric viola has the same size as an acoustic viola (search for the size that matches your viola). Getting a five string electric violin is a great hybrid solution, but if you want to switch easily back and forth your acoustic viola and your electric instrument get one with the same size and tuning.

What’s the best electric violin to buy?

The best electric violin to buy is the one that will fit your needs. Here are a few things to consider before buying an electric violin.

Consider how and where you want to use it. Are you looking for a silent violin for late-night practice? Are you considering joining a band where you’ll need amplification? What kind of music will you be playing and in what setting? Also, consider if this will be your primary instrument or an addition to your acoustic. If it will be your primary instrument, perhaps going with an electro-acoustic instrument will be best, since it will give you a wider range of possibilities. However, if this is just an addition to your acoustic, you can get more specific with its capabilities.

How much is an electric violin?

Electric violins can range anywhere from $100 to a few thousand. However, just like with anything else, you get what you pay for. Instruments under $500 were most likely made in a factory and come with low-quality equipment. However, if you can go up to $600 or so, your options (and their quality) dramatically increase.

Don’t forget to leave space in your budget for a good quality amplifier and maybe even a multi-effects processor!

Ideal tone quality. Some electric violins are made to sound more electric, and some are made to sound closer to acoustic. Generally, as you go up in price, the violin becomes more complex and natural-sounding due to more advanced pickup technology. Electric violin tone can easily be altered through equalization and effects, but it’s important to have a base tone that you enjoy.
Brands with rich, warm tones: Bridge Violins, Aurora
Brands that are more acoustic sounding: Yamaha, Fourness, MSI, NS Design

Ideal look and feel. Electric violins come in a wide variety of designs. Do you want one that stands out or one that is closer to a traditional violin shape? What color would you prefer? Are you okay with a heavier model, or do you prefer something lighter? What shoulder rest setup do you prefer?

Don’t forget about the bow! While you can play your electric violin with a regular acoustic violin bow, it could be worth looking into other options. If you’re going to be playing in a crowded space, consider looking into a different bow that you wouldn’t be heartbroken over losing or breaking. Many players prefer to use a carbon fiber bow with electric violins, as they can withstand more force and different environments.

Most importantly: If at all possible, try a lot of different violins out before making a purchase.

Why are electric violins cheaper than acoustic violins?

Generally, electric violins are cheaper than acoustic violins because the cost of production is significantly lower. Top-of-the-line electric violins go for around 2.5k while top-of-the-line acoustics can cost millions.

Electric Violin Buying Guide

Below, you’ll find different price ranges for electric violins along with suggestions for brands and specific models in each.

Electric Violins Under $500

A cheap solution to play the violin amplified, can also be a violin pickup or microphone.

Electric Violins $600 – $1000

The Wood, NS Design WAV And Yamaha are all available in four strings (normal violin tuning GDAE) and five strings (with an added lower C string, so CGDAE).

Electric Violins $1000 – $1750

Electric Violins $1750+

Wood Stingray Electric Violin

Famous electric violinists and violin solos

Ever wonder what an epic electric violin solo sounded like? Look no further. Here are a few of the most well-known electric violinists of all time.

Vanessa Mae: Storm

Vanessa Mae is arguably one of the most well-known electric violinists of all time- but did you know she was classically trained? At age thirteen, she became the youngest soloist to record both the Tchaikovsky and Beethoven violin concertos.

Lindsey Stirling: Crystallize

Lindsey Stirling revolutionized the world of electric violin playing with her innovative compositions (such as the one seen above) and her unique talent for dancing while playing. She has performed all over the world and received a number of awards for her violin playing.

David Garrett: Winter

Another classically trained violinist, David Garrett mostly plays covers of popular songs and classical music with an electric violin set up.

Taylor Davis: He’s a Pirate

Taylor Davis is best known for her original covers of video game music and corresponding music videos.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

Ariella Zeitlin – Beggin Maneskin

This violinists writes and produces her own music and rocks her Wood Viper electric violin.

Do you consider buying an electric violin?

Let me know your favorite in the comments!

Violin Scales: Learn the Most Common Scales on the Violin

Violin scales with free sheet music, finger charts and audio samples

Practicing scales on the violin is very important to:

  • learn to play in tune (improve intonation)
  • practice different bowing techniques
  • improve your rhythm skills
  • finger speed, flexibility and strength

Actually there’s nothing you can NOT learn with scales. You get to know the violin fingerboard, where all the notes are and in general scales are a laboratory to improve all aspects of your violin playing.

If you start each practicing with scales, you’ll notice that your overall violin technique improves and you can learn all the piece you love to play faster and better.

I’ll dive right into the most commonly used violin scales. General information about what a scale is and how to practice them comes later in this article. Just scroll and jump to what you’d like to learn first.

 

A Major Violin Scale

This is the first scale almost all violinists learn and a very comfortable key to play in. It has three sharps, F#, C#, and G#.

Beginner A Major One Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 2-4)

Start on open A. The fingering pattern is easy here because you just have to follow the tapes if you have them. If you don’t have tapes, make sure your high second finger always touches third finger. For the E, you can choose whether to play four on the A string or open E string.

Sensational Scales includes exercises in broken triads. These are the exact same notes and fingerings, just in a different order. Start on A, skip up to C#, come back down one step to B, skip up again, etc.

Intermediate A Major Two Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 16-17)

Here we add the lower octave on the G and D strings. Start on 1st finger G string. The fingering is pretty simple, just make sure to play high 3’s on the G and D strings. Everything else is the same, no shifting is necessary. Also try the bowing variations given in the book.

Advanced A Major Three Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 58,71)

This advanced scale requires shifting up to third, fifth, and seventh position. For most accurate results, always slide the shift carefully, never jump or jerk. The book gives two different options for fingerings. The Carl Flesch fingering is the most common. Experiment with both to become a flexible player.
The arpeggios here cycle through both A major and A minor.

Pro A Major Four Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 79)

A Major is one of the few scales that violinists can actually play in four octaves. That last A is one of the highest notes on the violin. Four octave scales don’t come up in sheet music very often, but examples in A major are the opening of Paganini Caprice No. 5 and the last few lines of Saint-Saëns Introduction and Rondo Capriccioso. If you hope to play this repertoire someday, brushing up on your four-octave scales would be a good idea.

Fingering-wise, once you get to third position A on the E string, just keep going up 1-2-1-2 until you get to the D in 13th position. Play the last five notes 1-2-3-4-extended 4 for the last A. Bring the four back to G. After that, it’s just 3-2-1 shifts all the way down the E string.

G Major Violin Scale

G major has one sharp, F#. It is the second key most violinists learn to use.

Beginner G Major One Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 2-4)

This scale starts on open G, the lowest note on the violin, and goes up to 3rd finger D string. Play high 2’s on both strings. You may notice this fingering is exactly the same as A major one octave, just starting on a lower string.

Advanced G Major Three Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 56,79)

G major is the easiest three octave scale since it starts on teh lowest note, so you don’t have to shift very high. Just shift to third position on the A string, then 5th position on the E string, and extend 4 for the top G. When shifting down, go straight from 5th position to 1st position on the E string. Remember to always shift carefully and smoothly.

D Major Violin Scale

D major has two sharps, F# and C#, and is the next easiest scale for beginners.

Beginner D Major One Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 2-4)

This is the exact same fingering pattern as A major and G major, just starting on the open D string.

Advanced D Major Three Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 63,76)

G, A♭, and A major all have their own fingerings. However, it is possible to play every other major scale with the exact same fingering, always starting with two on the G string. Then shift once on the A string, twice on the E string, then extended four on the top note. Refer to page 63 of Sensational Scales to understand this. Once you nail this fingering, you will be able to learn different scales much faster.

C Major Violin Scale

C major is the major key with no sharps or flats. On the piano you play this key easilly with just the white keys. As the violin is tuned in fifths however, we have different finger frames in this scale and it’s not the easiest scale even thought the key seems easy.

Beginner C Major One Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 5-7)

For this scale, you will need to use low 2nd finger, so make sure your 2nd finger touches your first finger when you put it down. Begin with 3rd finger on the G string, up to low 2nd finger on the A string. This is a really great scale to practice with drones.

Advanced C Major Three Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 61,74)

Use the standard fingering described above for D major. This scale starts in second position.

F Major Violin Scale

This is the only scale on this list that has a flat in the key signature, B♭. This scale is excellent for practicing low 1’s.

Beginner F Major One Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 12-14)

This scale might seem a bit more challenging at first, but just take it slow. This scale has B and F♮, so all the 1st fingers should be low. Place your finger behind the first-finger tape just a tiny bit above the nut. Use a drone if you have trouble playing those notes in tune.

Advanced F Major Three Octave Violin Scale

(Sensational Scales p. 66)

Here you can still use that standard three-octave fingering, but it starts up in 5th position. This might feel uncomfortable at first, but it’s a great scale for practicing intonation in high positions and really strengthens your fingers. Remember to bang your fingers down to help the notes speak.

FREE Violin Scale Book

All the sheet music you see in this article came from my book Sensational Scales. It’s a 85 page violin scale book that goes from simple beginner scales all the way to all three octave scales and arpeggios.

The beginner scales go together with finger charts, so even if you’re not that comfortable with reading notes, you can follow along.

Unique about this book is that it’s not ordered per key, but per finger frame and level of difficulty. It will take you through all the scales step by step. You know exactly what to do in your violin scale practice.

And the price? It’s FREE!

What is a violin scale?

A musical scale is any set of notes arranged in ascending or descending order. For example, if you want to start a scale on the note C, all the other notes must be played going up or down from C. There is no jumping around or changing directions.

Complete scales, as they are written in exercise books, typically begin and end on the same letter name, but if you look at any sheet music, you will often see little runs of anything from four to twenty-four notes. Although these passages can look intimidating, they are usually based on some sort of scale, so practice scales diligently in order to play these runs with ease.

So if a scale is a set of notes arranged in a particular order, how do we know how close together to put the notes? All western music is built on steps. There are just two kinds, half-steps and whole-steps. If you were to start at the bottom of a piano keyboard and go up playing every single key, you would be playing half-steps. If you count the half-steps between middle C and the C one octave higher, there are 12. (Note: in music we ALWAYS count the first note we play as step 1.) A whole-step is two half-steps put together.

Most scales are a specific combination of half-steps and whole-steps. Although there are many different types of scales, in this article we will only mention the two most common, major and natural minor. The steps of a major scale are WWHWWWH. The steps of a minor scale are WHWWHWW. For example: for the C major scale, start on a C, go up one whole-step to a D, another whole-step to an E, etc. For a C minor scale, go up one whole-step to a D, one half-step to an E♭, one whole-step to an F, and so on. So even though there are twelve steps in an octave, most scales will only use eight of those steps. Let’s look at the steps of the major scale, as that’s the first scale you’ll learn on the violin:

Why Practice Violin Scales?

Good question. Violin-playing is supposed to be fun right? Well the catch is that the better you sound the more fun it is, and the number one way to improve nearly every aspect of your technique is through regular, intentional, and focused scale practice.

When done well, scales can improve tone quality, rhythm, speed, bow control, intonation, shifting, flexibility, articulation, sight-reading… I get excited just thinking about it! If you’re still not convinced, challenge yourself for thirty days to dedicate a specific amount of practice time to scales. Record how your pieces sound both before and after this experience. I promise you won’t be disappointed.

How to Practice Violin Scales?

The main reason most students dread scales is because they don’t have a logical or effective scale practice routine. They don’t know how to use scales to challenge themselves, and therefore end up just repeating the same old exercises and habits for months or years!

If you are focused and make a plan, you will notice your violin scales improving on a daily basis.

Tools that help you practice violin scales

Metronome

The first of course is a metronome. Metronomes are the best goal-setting device musicians have. Start at a manageable tempo, and ramp it up very gradually each time. This is one of the most effective ways to train speed and consistency. Use my free online metronome right here.

Play violin scales with a drone

Another great exercise is practicing scales with a drone playing. The drone can be played either by another (very obliging) musician or a tuner app on your phone. Set the drone to the first note of your scale then play very slowly to check the tuning of every note.

A bit more difficult, but even better, is to play the drone yourself by playing a lower or higher open string along with your scales. I explain more about practicing violin drone scales in this video.

Different bowings

Speed and intonation are the things most people focus on when they play scales, but scales are useful for so many other techniques as well. For example, try practicing scales with increasingly more challenging bowings. The Carl Flesch scale system covers a plethora of advanced bowings, but it’s best to keep it simple and clear first. After mastering one note per bow, try two, then four, then eight, twelve, etc. Continue this pattern (with a metronome!) until you can play the whole scale up and down in one bow. Advanced players often practice doing three-octave scales up and down twice. That’s 84 notes in one bow!

Rhythmical variations

In order to play that many notes so quickly, however, your articulation must be excellent. That’s where practicing with rhythms comes in. Play strong, separate bows and alternate the length of the notes: long short, long short. Make sure the short note is very crisp and clean, shorter than a sixteenth note even. Bang your fingers down (I mean it) on the short notes, and move the bow quickly. Then reverse the pattern: short long, short long. When you put the scale back together normally, your finger dexterity and clarity will have greatly improved.

Bow distribution

The last important thing I’ll address is bow distribution. Many beginners do not think about how much bow they are using for each note. Try to play scales using the entire bow. If you are playing with slurs, make sure to divide the slur exactly in half, meaning if you are slurring eight notes you play four in the top half and four in the bottom half. Practicing bow distribution will help you have a smooth, full tone.

What are arpeggios on the violin?

If you download the Sensational Scales book, you will see that every scale also includes arpeggios. An arpeggio is just a broken chord. For example: the notes of a C major chord are C, E, and G. So to play the C Major arpeggio you would play just those notes up and down the violin. There are many types of arpeggios since you can base them off of any chord.

Chords vs Arpeggios

A chord is when you play several steps (notes) of a scale (for example the first, third and fifth) together at the same time. On a guitar or a piano it’s very common to play chords, but it’s also possible on the violin. Did you know you can play three notes (strings) at the same time on the violin? We call this a triple stop.

On the violin chords are often played ‘broken’. This means you first play the lower two notes together (double stop) and then the two highest notes of the chord or just the highest note.

An arpeggio is when you play the same notes as you would in a chord, but you don’t play them at the same time. You play them one by one, for example: the first note of the scale, then the third and then the fifth. You can play this back and forth.

Chords and arpeggios have the same notes from the scale, but you play them in a different way.

Hi! I'm Zlata

Classical violinist helping you overcome technical struggles and play with feeling by improving your bow technique.

Congratulations on learning the five most useful major scales on violin!

No matter how long you’ve been playing or what level you’re at, improving your scales is the best step to improving your overall violin skills. After learning these five, check out Sensational Scales for comprehensive exercises and explanations of all violin scales.

What’s the best violin scale book?

To practice violin scales, you need a good violin scale book. There are different ones on different levels and with pros and cons.

In this article I describe seven violin scale books, so you can decide what’s the best scale book for you!